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Ant pest control products should be chosen with care; use baits, sprays, insecticides, dusts for killing ants
Ant Pest Control Pest control for ants has become a major topic for professional pest control operators and individuals who are interested in do-it-yourself pest control. The list of home remedies, over the counter sprays and products developed within the professional pest control industry is one that grows every year. Of all the different pest control products for ants there are two basic groups of such materials: ant baits and contact insecticides for ants.
Contact Insecticides
The most confusing group (for the average person) is that which contains contact insecticides. Within this group are granules, sprays, aerosols and dusts. A contact insecticide is basically exactly what the term implies: the ant (or other targeted pest) must come into contact with the material before it is affected by the material. There are hundreds of over the counter aerosols or sprays that can be used to spray directly on visible ants or ant trails. These products give immediate results (killing the ants on contact) but rarely solve the problem of ridding the home or building of ant infestations.
Ant Control Granules Granule Summary
Although there are granular ant baits, this section is an explanation of granular, contact insecticides. Some examples of granular insecticides are Deltagard G, Talstar, and Niban. All of these products are used outdoors only and are not to be used inside buildings. In order for a granular product to work to its highest potential it should be broadcast over entire area of infestation. Many people will purchase granular insecticides and use them to spot-treat individual ant beds. Best results are achieved when the granules are broadcast over entire area where ants are known to forage for food or where ants are seen. Once the granules have been spread out over the targeted areas, water should be applied in order for the insecticide to work. An insecticide granule consists of two basic elements: an insecticide (active ingredient) and a carrier or solid particle on which the active ingredient is impregnated. Older types of insecticides contain organophosphate materials. The newer types (Talstar, DeltaGard) contain synthetic or man-made pyrethrin materials. Talstar contains Bifenthrin, Over'n Out contains Fipronil and DeltaGard contains Deltamethrin. These newer chemicals are safer for people, pets, wildlife and the environment than the older and heavier organophosphate insecticides. If the granules are not watered or irrigated, the insecticide material merely sits on the surface. Ants that contact this particle will be affected but the ants that walk between particles (insects can easily be repelled by sensing your insecticide!) will rarely be affected or killed. By watering in the granules after application you will release the active ingredients into the soil, where the product is needed for ant control. Another draw-back to not watering your insecticide ant granules is the effect of the sun. Modern products that contain Bifenthrin, Fipronil or Deltamethrin are more stable than older products once exposed to sunlight but they all need to be irrigated before the sun has a chance to degrade the insecticides. When granules are broadcast and have to wait for the next rainfall, the insecticide contained in the granules quickly begin to break down due to exposure to the sun's rays. In other words, water your granular product immediately after application if you want to get the best results for the money spent on the product.
Insecticide Granule Summary
Broadcasting entire area is more effective for ant control than dumping piles of granules on individual ant mounds. Do not wait for the rain! Water or irrigate area immediately after application of insecticide granules. Keep people and pets off of all treated surfaces until dry. Ant Sprays
For the sake of this discussion, only liquid insecticides that are not in aerosol forms are listed as ant sprays. Aerosols will be mentioned in the aerosol ant spray section of the article. When choosing an ant spray it is always better to purchase a concentrate instead of a ready mixed, ready to use (RTU) type of insecticide. Once an insecticide concentrate has been mixed with water, it should be used the same day; for best results it should be used within a couple of hours after mixing. The reason for this is simple: water is not friendly to insecticides. If you mix your insecticide concentrate with water and allow the solution to sit in your sprayer for a few days, the insecticide will not be as strong as when it was first mixed. You can easily lose 25 to 50 percent of the product's effectiveness within 24 to 48 hours. Water is an efficient and necessary tool for delivering pesticides to their targeted areas but (when not used in a timely manner) water also destroys your insecticide. For these reasons it is obvious that a ready mixed product will not be nearly as effective as a solution that you create by mixing concentrate with water. Indoor products should be specifically labeled for indoor use, which helps insure that the pesticide is safe to use in the environment where it is to be sprayed. Indoor ant sprays should be water-safe for fabrics and flooring and safe for humans and pets when applied as directed. Outdoor ant sprays are usually formulated so that the active ingredients and solvents contained in the pesticide concentrate will safely do the job stated by the label without burning or harming turf grass, shrubs, ornamentals and most ground covers where ants might be a problem.
Indoors, an ant spray should be applied to areas where ant trails have been seen or where ants are suspected of foraging for food or traveling from their food sources to their hidden nests. Safety first: treat areas where ants are most likely to come into contact with the material but where people and pets have the least contact. When it is necessary to spray floors or baseboards, make sure that children and pets are not in the area during treatment. Once the treated areas have been allowed to dry, children and pets can return to the areas. Most of the ants that contact the surfaces you have treated will die within a very short time period. A good, professional ant spray insecticide should give you at least 30 days residual or insecticide activity. Standard liquid insecticides (usually denoted by the "EC" in their name) will last about one month on indoor surfaces. Microencapsulated products will last at least twice as long as an emulsifiable concentrate (EC) when used as directed. A wettable powder (WP) will last at least three times as long as an EC. Wettable powders cost a little more than liquid concentrates but can last as long as three to six months, requiring you to spray less often. Spraying for ants indoors does not require the same volume of product as does treating the home for fleas or ticks. Flea and tick pest control requires that all flooring, carpets, rugs and most furniture be broadcast with product. When treating for ants you only need to spray areas where ants hide, forage for food or where they might hide. Suggested areas in a home include spaces between walls and plumbing lines, beneath false bottoms of cabinets, baseboards, underneath and behind major appliances such as stoves, refrigerators and freezers. Your insecticide label will list areas that the manufacturer suggests for controlling certain pests such as ants. When treating indoors and outdoors you need to inspect for and treat all possible entry points, hiding places and paths of travel of your household pests such as ants. Avoid poor and unsafe practices such as "hosing down" your countertops or other food prep areas with an ant spray. If this has happened in your home, thoroughly clean such surfaces with soap and water. In pest control, a little common sense goes a long way!
Outdoor pest control for ants is broken down into two sections: spraying the exterior surfaces of the home or building and broadcasting areas around the building. Spraying the exterior of the home is simple but very important. Every possible entry point is to be sprayed. Pay close attention to any tiny space (as small as a pencil point, as narrow as the thickness of a business card) where ants or other bugs might enter a home. A pump type garden sprayer is best for this job, which is the same sprayer you will use for spraying indoors for ants.
Broadcasting the areas around a home or building will help insure that ant beds (both visible, above ground and not so visible shallow mounds under mulch, etc.) are contacted with your spray. The best sprayer for this job is a hose-end sprayer. There are several such sprayers on the market but you need to make sure that the sprayer you purchase for insecticide applications is manufactured with a siphon tube that will draw the insecticide solution from the sprayer, mixing as it sprays. Keep pets and children out of area during treatment. Keep them off of all treated areas until dry. The best concentrated products to use for your exterior broadcast ant spray are Talstar Concentrate or a professional Cypermethrin product such as Cynoff EC. Very little product is needed for each application, making these products safer and more economical to use.
There are hundreds of ant spray products that are available for purchase and use in and around your home. There are certain active ingredients that are safer than others (when used as directed) and that do a great job with no smelly residue. Cypermethrin, Bifenthrin, Permethrin and Deltamethrin are active ingredients that are used by professionals for the control of ants, roaches, spiders and many other household pests. The most popular concentrates used for ant pest control are Suspend SC, Cynoff EC, Demon WP, Cynoff WP. All of these products are either odorless or super low odor and are labeled for use indoors and all of these products are good ant sprays.
Ant Spray Aerosols
Professional aerosols are not usually used in the same manner as over the counter sprays purchased in grocery stores or home improvement stores. If a professional aerosol contains a residual insecticide, it should not be used to broadcast wide surfaces such as food storage cabinets or countertops. These aerosols should be used for cracks and crevices, only. A crack and crevice aerosol can be sprayed into hidden areas where ants are likely to be or known to be but where people and pets do not come into contact with treated surfaces. CB AirDevil, CB Invader are good examples of contact insecticide aerosols that are used to kill ants and other household pests. When cracks and crevices need to be treated for ants, aerosols or dusts can be used. Insecticide dusts give better coverage (in places where ants hide or nest) than aerosol sprays.
Insecticide Dusts for Ant Pest Control
When a home is constantly being invaded by ants or when there is a severe infestation that cannot be controlled by conventional ant sprays, insecticide dusts can be a great tool for help in eliminating the problem. Insecticide dusts should always be used in cracks and crevices, only. Do not broadcast dusts in open areas to control ants. Ants often enter a structure through plumbing and electrical lines. They also use these same routes to travel throughout the home in their search for food or as they scout an area for a suitable nesting site. Two insecticide dusts that work for ant control are Delta Dust and Drione Dust. Plumbing lines and areas around doors and windows (in wall voids) and the inside of hollow block construction normally have slight to moderate moisture levels. Plumbing lines will often have condensation. These moist conditions are detrimental to insecticide dusts. The exception to this rule is Delta Dust. This is a water-proof dust that contains Deltamethrin (the same active ingredient contained in Suspend SC.) Delta Dust is the perfect crack and crevice product for the control of ants in areas where sprays cannot be used effectively. Many dusts are packaged and shipped in soft containers that can be used to dispense the material into appropriate areas. Best results are achieved when a hand bellows duster is used to apply your dust. A good bellows duster is the Crusader Duster. This is a small, hand held device that gives you the ability to safely and easily deliver your insecticide dust behind light switch covers and electrical outlets, between walls and cabinets, walls and baseboards or other such cracks, crevices, hiding places and entry points used by ants and other bugs.
Ant Baits
There are four different types of baits used in ant pest control: solid, granular, liquid and gel. Most types are self explanatory but first we must clear up a misconception: there is a big difference between an insecticide granule and a granular ant bait. While granular insecticides are used for outdoor ant and insect control and must be watered after application, ant baits are used outdoors and selected areas indoors but are not designed to be watered or irrigated. Insecticide granules are used as a contact insecticide; ant baits are designed to be picked up by the foraging worker ants and carried back to their colony.
The attractant and active ingredients contained in an ant bait are transferred from the worker ants to the larvae in the ant colony. From there the materials are shared with or transferred throughout the entire colony. Adult ants cannot digest solid foods. Solid foods are fed to ant larvae who can digest solids. The materials are then passed on to the rest of the ant colony as liquids that are regurgitated by the larvae. If you will watch an active ant trail, you will notice that there is a line leading to the food source and another line returning to the colony. Solid food particles can be seen in the jaws of the workers as they transport the foods back to the ant bed. Many times you will notice that the workers returning to the nest are not carrying solids but their bellies seem to be swollen. This is because they are transporting food in liquid form. Granular baits can be broadcast around the exterior of buildings and in other areas where ants are seen as they look for food. These granular products can be used indoors if placed in attics, crawl spaces, wall voids or other areas that are not accessible to children and pets. Maxforce Granular Insect Bait, Niban are all examples of professional granular ant baits. Solid bait stations can be used indoors and outdoors but are best suited for indoor use. Simply place the stations in areas where ants normally trail or forage for food. Most professional ant bait stations have a see-through top for easy inspection. When ants eat all of the bait in any station, replace it with a new one. Fluorguard, Maxforce and Dual Choice are good ant bait stations to use. Gel formulations are also effective for the control of ants and offer a wider range of places where the bait can be placed. Ant bait gels are normally packaged in a type of syringe that allows you to put out small spots of bait or inject the bait into cracks, crevices or entry points where the ants can locate the bait while foraging. A very popular device made for such baits is the Ant Cafe. With an Ant Cafe you can make your own, reusable bait stations. Gourmet Ant Bait Gel and Maxforce Ant Killer Bait Gel are the best baits in gel formulation.
When using ant baits, do not spray or dust with a contact insecticide in the same area! Not only will your bait be contaminated by the insecticides but the spray or dust will kill worker ants before they have a chance to share the baited food with the rest of the colony. The whole point of using a bait is to let the ants do all the work!
A very important part of ant pest control is to correctly identify the ant species that is your pest. Fireants can be controlled with either contact insecticides or baits. Carpenter ants can also be controlled with either type but the new carpenter ant baits are doing the best job. Pharaoh Ants are best controlled by using a variety of ant baits but do not respond well when exposed to ant sprays or insecticide dusts. For ant identification, biology and how to kill ants of different species, read about any of the following pest ants. Fireants and carpenter ants are easy to recognize for most pest control technicians. Crazy ants, Argentine ants, Pharaoh ants, Ghost ants and others can be difficult to control if they have not been identified and treated with the proper products and pest control methods. Ant control must begin with correctly identifying the particular pest that has invaded a home, business, school or other building. After identifying your ant, you can then study pest control methods and which type of products should be used for safe elimination of ant colonies. Most people prefer to use an ant bait when dealing with such infestations. Baiting for ants is usually considered less intrusive and easier than using ant sprays, dusts, granules or other contact insecticides. When it comes to choosing an ant bait, do not let the many different types (formulations) and brands of ant baits confuse you. For each ant listed in the index that requires baiting, specific types of ant baits and brands of bait are discussed. Carpenter ant baits are designed for a particular species. Extinguish Fire Ant Bait can be used in pastures where fireants need to be controlled but where livestock or horses graze. In many cases, the ant species will dictate which products will successfully eliminate the pests. When the wrong product is used, time and money are wasted! Examples of ant control products for specific species: Pharaoh ants should be controlled with a combination of baits. If sprays are used, the infestation will actually become worse than before. This is explained in greater detail in pharaoh ant elimination. Crazy ants do not always respond to ant baits. If your ant baits fail and you have identified the pests as crazy ants, you should change tactics. In this case, a combination of contact insecticides will be needed. Carpenter ants can be controlled with contact insecticides or with special Carpenterant baits. When special baits are used, the wood ants (as they are sometimes called) will do the work for you - carrying the tasty food back where it is fed to the entire carpenter ant colony. Once these pests have been brought under control, either continuing the baiting program or changing over to a spray program will prevent carpenterants from re-investing your home. For an in-depth look at carpenter ant control, read carpenter ant information, inspecting for carpenter ants and carpenterant control articles. The above examples are given to encourage correct identification of the ants in your home or business.
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Acrobat Ant Elimination, Biology, Habits of Acrobat Ants Biology and Habits Acrobat Identification Image Elimination of Acrobat Ants
Biology
Acrobat ants get their name from their unique habit of sometimes running while holding their abdomen above their thorax when disturbed. This gives them the appearance of an acrobat who walks on his or her hands. These ants do not build large, above ground mounds. Instead, you are more likely to find them nesting in dead tree limbs, hollow logs, fallen trees, old tree stumps or even the hollow cavity of a tree. Around a home or business, acrobat ant colonies can be found in any organic litter or mulch and beneath stacks of firewood, under stepping stones, landscape timbers, bird baths, etc. They are often found in shrubs or ornamentals, feeding on insects and the honeydew produced by aphids. All of these areas must be taken into consideration when eliminating acrobat ant infestations. Worker ants will enter a home or other structure by crawling along electrical and phone lines. They also access homes from shrubs or trees which are too close or touching the building or by simply crawling up the outside walls to enter around windows, doors, cracks, crevices or through vents. It would be very difficult (if not impossible) to eliminate all access points. Acrobat Ant Control
Besides feeding on aphid "honeydew" and dead insects, these ants are fond of sweets and proteins found in any home.
Acrobat Identification Image of Acrobat Ant Top of Page Key characteristics of acrobat ants: The color of the worker ant can vary from light brown or dark brown. When viewed from above, this ant's abdomen is shaped like a heart. When viewed from the side, the pedicel attaches to the upper part of the abdomen. In most ant species, the pedicel is attached on the lower part of the abdomen. Each antenna has 12 segments and a 3 segmented club. All workers are of the same size. Once indoors, they will feed on a variety of sweets and proteins but will rarely take ant baits. Acrobat Ant Elimination Top of Page Ridding your home of Acrobat ants involves many of the procedures (both chemical and non-chemical) used in eliminating Odorous House Ants, Crazy Ants and Carpenter Ants. Baiting for Acrobat ants has limited results. [If you can only use baits (due to circumstances in your home which prohibit the use of dusts and sprays), Maxforce products will work best. Maxforce Granules should be used outdoors, Maxforce FC Ant Bait Stations should be used where ants are seen foraging indoors. For severe indoor infestations, Maxforce FG should be placed in wall voids, attics, etc.; use of a Crusader Duster will make application of these smaller particles to cracks and crevices easier.]
Spray Treatment: For best results, make a thorough inspection indoors and outdoors to locate any nests, trails, entry points, hiding places, etc. All of these areas need to be treated with Cypermethrin to kill existing ants and prevent newer ant colonies from entering the structure. Look for and spray any possible entry point or hiding place. Our Chapin sprayer has an adjustable tip for spraying entry points and baseboards or for slowly drenching ant mounds. Areas to be sprayed include any tiny opening where the pests might enter, around or beneath all stepping stones and landscape timbers, the soil around the home, storage sheds, firewood. Make sure that all mulched areas are thoroughly treated. Any ornamental shrubs located close to the structure should be treated to eliminate any possible aphids or other insects. If you have shrubs or other vegetation which needs to be treated for aphids, use Dragnet instead of Cypermethrin. Acrobat ants will feed on insects and are fond of the honeydew produced by aphids.
Dust Treatment: If you have determined that the ants have established colonies in your walls, it may be necessary to apply Delta Dust to any void where you suspect ant (or other insect activity.) Use a Crusader Duster for applying Delta Dust to wall voids, cracks and crevices. For smaller infestations, insecticide dust might not be needed.
In summary, all existing ant trails and nests of the acrobat ant must be located and eliminated. Without thorough inspection (both indoors and out) and necessary treatment, these pests will continue to "pop up" and continue to be a pest. Fire ants are a nuisance and a painful pest to anyone unlucky enough to live in their stomping grounds. It is unlikely we will eradicate these pests any time soon, but we can remove the problem associated with them by good integrated pest management (IPM) practices. This involves reducing their populations to tolerable levels by using safe and effective methods of control. [Bites and Stings]
This article will deal with three ant elimination methods: baiting, mound drenching and broadcasting of contact pesticides. In many cases, these methods can be used together in a year-round program. The best program for eliminating ants and controlling them throughout the year:
Drench all existing mounds with Cynoff EC or Talstar concentrate. At least one gallon of finished solution is required for fire ant mounds, 1/2 gallon for smaller ones. A good rule of thumb is to use one gallon of solution per foot of diameter of mound. For example, a huge mound that is three feet wide (at its base) would require three gallons of finished solution. This ensures that you kill ants deep in the colony structure. Keep pets and children away from treated areas until dry. Broadcast entire area with Talstar granules. Do not spot treat. Broadcasting this professional granule ensures that all ants on the surface will contact your product. After applying your granules, apply water to the treated area. Water will help place the granules onto the surface of the soil, instead of allowing them to just rest on blades of grass. Keep pets and children off of all treated areas until dry. Talstar granules pose far less hazards to people, pets, wildlife and the environment than most granules on the market, but you must still follow good safety practices -- read and follow all label instructions. This program may be implemented 1 to 3 times per year, varying with severity of ant infestation.
When treating mounds with any contact insecticide or professional bait, do not disturb mounds before treating. If you do, the colony will immediately take the queen or queens to safety, either deep down in the mound or move them laterally to establish satellite mounds. This stressing of the colony causes more problems than anyone can imagine.
Mound Drenching Top of Page Generally, it takes 1 to 2 gallons of mixed pesticide solution to drench a fire ant mound effectively. A mid-morning drench treatment is best when the sun starts warming up the colony. There are many insecticides that may be used for mound drenching, but we have the seen the best results with the following active ingredients: Bifenthrin (Talstar liquid concentrate, Talstar granules) Cypermethrin (Cynoff EC, Cynoff WP, Demon WP, Cypermethrin 4 ounce) or Permethrin (Dragnet) These materials are all in the synthetic pyrethrin class of chemicals. Synthetics are far more photostable than common organophosphates (Durban, Diazinon, Malathion, Acephate) which can lose their effectiveness in as little as three hours of sunlight. Mounds properly drenched with synthetic pesticides can kill returning or foraging ants for 30 days or more! As an added benefit, synthetic pyrethroids are safer for humans and domestic animals as well as the environment, when used as directed by the label. The best example is Talstar, whose molecules actually bond to soil particles. This means that the material stays where you apply it and does not leach out into undesirable locations.
Broadcast Treatment
Talstar (liquid and granular) gives the best long term control when broadcasting large areas with a hose-end sprayer. Permethrin Pro calls for 1 ounce of concentrate per 1,000 square feet. Talstar uses only 1/8 to 1/4 ounce per thousand. If granular pesticides are preferred, use Talstar Granules or DeltaGard granules applied with a granule spreader for accurate application. Although it is used at very low rates, Talstar has given us the longest control; many customers state that no ants re-enter a treated area for as long as three months! Top Choice Granules are another product which gives long term control of fire ants. These granules may be broadcast at any time of the year; for optimal control, apply TopChoice in spring of the year when fire ants are most active.
Baiting For Fire Ants Top of Page The use of professional ant baits is a very thorough method of control, slowly killing the entire colony. Baits work best when used in the spring and early summer. When the weather gets hot and dry, baits are generally ineffective for fire ant control. However, fire ant baiting has two drawbacks: cost and length of control time. For instance, baiting an entire area will kill the existing ant colonies but will not always control new ant colonies invading from nearby areas that were not baited properly. Also, most people with fire ant problems live on very large lots -- 2 acres or better. This involves a great deal of bait at a premium price.
The most successful baiting practice for fire ant control on turf is to use granular baits such as Maxforce Granular (or Extinguish Fire Ant Bait when baiting graze lands) in the early spring followed by soil drenches 4 to 6 weeks later if needed. Broadcast granular bait applications are most effective; however, it may take 4 to 6 weeks to give control. Early spring application is ideal because it controls recently developed queens before they leave on their nuptial flights and establish new colonies. Killing the queens is the only way to eliminate fire ant colonies. Follow-up granular bait applications usually are necessary in mid-summer and another one in the fall.
Apply baits when the ground is dry and when ground temperatures are between 70 and 90 with no forecast of rain. Apply baits around the base of mounds and also broadcast the entire areas where ants are seen foraging.. Baits are picked up by foraging ants looking for food. The ants take the bait back to the ant colony; it passes through the food chain and is fed to the queen ants. Granular bait recommendations are listed below.
In summer and fall, apply bait in the afternoon when temperatures are cooler because baits may rapidly degrade on hot, sunny days. By the time ants pick up the bait, the heat may have broken down the active ingredient, losing its effectiveness.
CARPENTER ANTS
Inspecting For Carpenter Ants
Carpenter Ants Control Methods Pesticide Applications for Carpenter Ants Carpenter Ant Baits
Mechanical Modifications Baits Preventive Treatments
In some areas of the country, carpenter ants (wood ants) cause more damage to structures than termites. They are difficult insects to control and can cause extensive damage to wood members in a fairly short period of time. Carpenter ants do not actually eat wood but excavate galleries within it to use as nesting sites. Foraging activity can occur at any time of day but usually peaks at night. When foraging inside houses, carpenter ants are attracted to sweets, meat, grease and fat.
A carpenter ant colony is usually formed by a queen who begins a nest in a piece of old buried wood or in a partially decayed tree or stump. In mature infestations, there may be as many as ten satellite colonies linked to the parent colony by trails. There is a frequent exchange of workers between these satellite colonies and the main nest. Colonies normally do not produce winged reproductive forms until they are at least three to six years old with emergence of swarmers typically occurring from May through July.
The most common way in which homes become infested is through emigration of an existing colony. Houses located near wooded areas or brush covered vacant lots are good candidates for infestation. Carpenter ant colonies are inclined to move if they are disturbed, as often happens during construction. Thus, new homes or those surrounding a new building lot present likely locations for attack.
Inspecting For Carpenter Ants Some Common Signs of Carpenter Ant Infestations:
Frass, which is made up of wood shavings, bits of soil, dead ants and parts of insects. This material is often piled up outside of nest openings and found in spider webs and window sills. Small windows or slit-like openings that carpenter ants cut into infested wood. These windows are actually "garbage chutes" which are used to dispose of frass or unwanted materials. Swarmers are the winged reproductives that take flight in the spring. Look for them trapped in spider webs, on window ledges or in light fixtures. Worker carpenter ants are active mostly at night, so you may not see any activity during normal working hours. Even if you do, it does not mean that the nest is nearby. Worker ants can travel up to the length of a football field booking food. Clicking or rustling sounds can sometimes be heard coming from carpenter ant nests. If you identify a potential nest site, try tapping against it with a screwdriver. You may hear a response -- the clicking of alarmed ants. Wood damaged by carpenter ants contains galleries that are very clean and smooth. The first sign of a carpenter ant infestation is usually the sighting of numerous workers throughout the home; occupants often complain of big black ants. However, the presence of workers alone is not conclusive evidence that a colony is established within a structure. Carpenter ant workers tend to roam far and wide looking for food, and some transient workers are sure to enter any home located in a wooded area. Signs of an active infestation include the presence of fibrous sawdust beneath slit-like openings in wood members and faint, rustling noises in walls and woodwork. A positive indication that an active, mature infestation is present is the emergence of large winged ants from walls, ceilings, or crawl spaces.
Carpenter ant galleries in wood have smooth surfaces and can be differentiated from subterranean termite damage by the absence of "mud" in the galleries. Ants normally excavate wood that has been softened by decay or other insects, however, they will tunnel into sound wood when conditions are favorable. Nests and galleries may be located a considerable distance from the point or points of entry. In addition to structural lumber, sites such as hollow-core doors, window headers, wall voids, and foam panels are particularly attractive to carpenter ants.
Carpenter ants often enter homes through openings such as foundation or attic vents, cracks, plumbing holes, entrances for telephone and electric wires, etc. One thing to look for during an inspection are tree branches that may be just above or in contact with the roof. Firewood piles are prime nesting sites and should be treated with an appropriately labeled pesticide such as Suspend SC, Talstar Concentrate or Cynoff. Suspend SC, Talstar Concentrate and Cynoff are excellent pesticides used for immediate kill and long term control of carpenter ants and many other insect pests. If damage to fire wood is extensive, simply dispose of the wood.
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Carpenter Ant Control Methods Mechanical Modifications Pesticide Applications
Mechanical Modifications
The first step in carpenter ant control should always include mechanical modifications to the structure and environment. The object is to reduce the avenues available for carpenter ants to enter a home or structure, as well as removing possible food and water sources.
If any tree limbs are in contact with the roof, cut them back. Carpenter ants can easily drop to a structure from tree limbs as high as five feet above the roof.
Move firewood away from the house. Keep firewood elevated so as not to have direct contact with the soil. This will protect it from other wood destroying organisms (termites, decay, fungus) besides carpenter ants.
Seal cracks along foundations, siding, windows and doors with caulk and install fine mesh screens over crawl space and attic vents.
Insects need water in addition to food and eliminating sources of water will make an area less attractive to carpenter ants. If necessary, fix plumbing leaks, reroute air conditioner drains and make sure sprinkler heads are properly adjusted.
Pesticide Applications for Carpenter Ants
There are basically four methods of pesticide application used for controlling active infestations of carpenter ants: exterior perimeter treatments, interior void treatments, treating the infested wood and baiting.
Perimeter Insecticide Treatments
The most commonly used method for controlling carpenter ants is treating the perimeter of a home with a dust or spray. There are several products available for this type of application, but Suspend SC, Talstar Concentrate and Cynoff WP are the best. When used in accordance with their labels they work well. However, these treatments do not keep ants from entering a home from overhead trees and power lines. Also, as a stand alone treatment, they rarely eliminate ants inside voids and walls.
Interior Void Treatments Crusader Duster Delta Dust Drione Dust Foam
The treatment of interior wall voids has become more popular with the availability of insecticide dusts and the introduction of foaming applications. The efficacy of dusts depend on ants ignoring the presence of the dry insecticides and walking through them, contaminating the ants' bodies in the process. Ants then ingest the insecticide while grooming. (Ants, carpenter ants groom themselves and each other.) If dusts are not applied properly, ants and other insects simply detour around the insecticide. To apply dusts properly, a bellows duster (such as the Crusader Duster) must be used. You need to use either Drione Dust or Delta Dust for carpenter ant infestations of interior wall voids. Drione Dust works well in a dry environment, but Delta Dust is the best where there is any sign of moisture. Delta Dust is a synthetic pyrethroid insecticide dust that is water proof.
One limitation of this control method is that the dust must be placed directly onto the pathway used by the ants. If, for example, the dust is placed on the floor plate and the ants are using an electrical conduit located three inches above the plate as their pathway, control will not be attained. This means simply that dust is an excellent tool, but should be used along with other control methods, not as a "stand alone" carpenter ant eliminator.
Another problem with using dusts is their sensitivity to high moisture conditions. Dusts have a tendency to cake or crust when they get damp. This makes them ineffective since ants can then walk across them without picking any up on their bodies. Only Delta Dust is water proof.
Spot Treatments of Infested Wood Spot treating infested wood with Bora-Care will quickly eliminate a localized carpenter ant infestation. (Carpenter ants do not actually eat or consume wood as do worker termites but they do carry wood particles in their jaws while building or maintaining their nest galleries.) Whenever practical, inject Bora-Care directly into the carpenter ant galleries. However, it is important to treat an entire infested area in order to reduce the possibility of colony relocation. A frequent problem encountered with carpenter ants is the fragmentation of a colony when subjected to a pesticide. Bora-Care, like many other pesticides, is repellent to carpenter ants and may cause them to avoid treated areas and seek out untreated wood. The best treatment method consists of not only treating the infested area, but also treating all wood susceptible to attack. This would include an entire crawl space, wall or attic showing any signs of damage. All bare wood should be sprayed to the point of wetness. Confined areas can be treated using a foaming device to apply pesticides and liquid foamer or fogging device (foaming is best) but heavily infested wood should be directly sprayed either before or after fogging or foaming.
Treating Infested Foam Panels Carpenter ants will occasionally infest foam insulation panels around foundations and under stucco and other types of siding. Carpenter ant infestations in foam may be treated by spraying the infested area, if accessible, or by drilling and injecting diluted Bora-Care directly into ant galleries. To foam inside wall voids, hollow block or other such areas, use Termitafoam. This product turns your insecticide into a shaving cream type solution which helps disperse your pesticides into those hard to reach areas. To learn more about foaming. To foam inside wall voids you will need Bora-Care, Termitafoam and our Professional Foamer.
Baits
The newest and most efficient method of controlling carpenter ants is by using baits. Baits work by decreasing the population of carpenter ants in an area, thus reducing their potential for entering a structure. Niban Granular Bait and Niban-FG Fine Granular Bait are carpenter ant baits which can be used for both interior and exterior applications. Maxforce Carpenter Ant Bait Gel is the fastest for indoor ant colonies.
Note: One of the quickest ways to destroy the effectiveness of any bait is to contaminate it with another pesticide. Never treat the same area with both a spray and a bait at the same time. If you must use a pesticide spray, wait at least two weeks after application before beginning your baiting program. And never use the same containers, measuring cups or dusters for both baits and contact pesticides. A little bit of pesticide residue can contaminate a lot of bait!
Exterior Baiting
A primary objective in an exterior baiting program is to place a band of bait between the satellite colonies in the structure and the main nest. Since there is a continual exchange of workers between satellite colonies and the main nest, you want to give worker ants an opportunity to pick up the bait on their way to and from nesting sites. Since the main nest is frequently in an old log stump within a 300 foot radius of the home, it is important to locate and treat it with the bait. Although following ants and their trails to the main nest can be a tedious task, especially at night, it is well worth the effort. Elimination of the main nest will substantially reduce the risk of re-infestation.
A two to four foot band of Niban Granular Bait should be applied around the perimeter of the structure as well as around the base of all trees, stumps, firewood piles and other locations where carpenter ants may nest. Niban Granular Bait should also be applied along ant trails and other areas where ant activity has been noted.
Unlike other carpenter ant baits, Niban Granular Bait will not degrade from exposure to heat or sunlight and studies have shown that Niban will remain effective through about two inches of rainfall. Re-application of Niban Granular Bait should be made periodically during intervals of very wet weather.
Interior Baiting
Whenever possible, exterior baiting should be combined with an interior baiting program. This will speed the eradication process and provide residual bait in order to prevent a re-infestation. However, you must use a long-lasting bait like Niban-FG Fine Granular Bait which will remain effective for months rather than days or weeks. Maxforce Carpenter Ant Gel should be incorporated into your ant control program indoors, especially for large or stubborn carpenter ant infestations.
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Preventive Treatments
As previously stated, new construction is particularly susceptible to carpenter ant attack. Un-infested wood properly treated with Bora-Care will be protected from carpenter ant attack. Exterior wood surfaces exposed to rain or snow which have been treated with Bora-Care should also be coated with a water resistant finish such as paint or stain. Interior Bora-Care treated wood surfaces do not need to be coated.
During construction, the application of Niban-FG Fine Granular Bait in wall voids and other confined spaces will help prevent carpenter ant infestations. Re-application of these baits on a periodic basis will significantly reduce the likelihood of carpenter ants establishing a satellite colony within a structure.
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Odorous House Ants: Elimination, Biology, Description Biology and identification of odorous house ants Inspecting and location Image Odorous house ant elimination
Biology and identification of odorous house ants
When crushed, the workers of this species give off an odor which resembles that of rotten coconut, giving them their odd name. There is only one size worker in their colonies; they are usually about 1/8 inch in length. The odorous house ant is dark brown to black in color, has 12 segments in its antennae, no circle of hairs on tip of abdomen, no club on the antennae, one node, and has an uneven thorax when viewed from the side. Do not confuse this ant with the Ghost Ant, which is smaller and is not as dark in color. This ant infests structures in certain areas of the country, especially in the mid South regions, Alabama, Tennessee, Mississippi and Arkansas. In areas where the Argentine ant is a major pest, you will be less likely to see the odorous house ant.
This ant is very opportunistic, living a variety nesting sites, moving constantly to avoid the perils of inclimate weather conditions. Not only will you find huge super colonies, but many satellite colonies located close to the main colony. These different colonies do not fight for food, but rather like to exchange food, workers and larvae between the different colony units. Odorous House Ants feed on living and dead insects but are particular fond of the sweet honey dew produced by aphids, scales and mealybugs. If found inside structures, these ants will eat many available foods but again prefer to feed on sweets. These ants will forage during the day and the night. The size of colonies, number of workers, wide variety of food sources and multiple queens per colony make this a formidable foe to eradicate.
Inspecting and location
Indoor Inspection Outdoor Inspection Indoor Inspection
When inspecting for odorous house ants indoors, pay close attention to baseboards, edges of carpets, window sills and other such areas. These pests are active foragers, so they should not be hard to locate. Once ant trails have been found, follow the trails back to their nest or outdoor wall where they might have entered the structure.
Outdoor Inspection
Foraging trails and colonies are often found outside along foundations, beneath and behind vegetation, ground cover, decorative timbers or stones and mulch. Gently rake back any such material to help locate outdoor nests. Look beneath all objects touching the soil. Odorous house ants will make shallow colonies in the soil, nest under construction materials and other such areas mentioned above. These ants can survive in a variety of habitats, but if excessive moisture is found, it will help to implement measures to reduce the moist conditions: redirect sprinkler heads, repair leaky faucets, etc.
Odorous house ant elimination
Without proper inspection, locating all possible nests and nesting sites, you will not be able to establish good control over these pests!
Indoor pesticide applications: If ODOROUS HOUSE ANTS have invaded your home, spray Cypermethrin along baseboards, window sills, around plumbing or where ants are most often seen. If none have been found indoors, skip down to Outdoor Pesticide Application. Look for and spray any possible entry point or hiding place. Our Chapin sprayer has an adjustable tip for spraying entry points and baseboards or for slowly drenching ant mounds. If you have determined that the ants have established colonies in your walls, it may be necessary to apply an insecticide dust (Delta Dust is the best) to any void where you suspect ant or other insect activity. Use a Crusader Duster for applying Delta Dust to wall voids, cracks and crevices. For smaller infestations, insecticide dust might not be needed. If you know there are a great deal of these ants in your walls (or other inaccessible areas) but cannot locate them for dust application, bait indoors with Maxforce FG granular bait. Only use baits as a last resort, when dealing with the Odorous House Ant. This ant species does not respond well to baits. Maxforce FG is also applied with a Crusader Duster. When using baits, do not use insecticide sprays or dusts in the same area. Insecticides will contaminate your bait.
Outdoor pesticide applications: Once all ant colonies have been located, treating the nests is quite simple. All visible mounds must be drenched (or soaked) with high volume of Cypermethrin under low pressure. Simply "fan-spraying" the surface of individual mounds does not work. Each nest needs to be thoroughly drenched. All mulch needs to be sprayed. These pests will often thrive in the damp organic materials we use around our homes and in landscaping. Also spray a barrier around your home; an area 4 to 6 feet wide around the structure should suffice. Fan spray all tree trunks and soil adjacent to the trunk. Also, fan spray all landscape timbers, decorative stones and rocks, or any other object which might look inviting to odorous house ants and other insect pests.
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Summary of Odorous House Ant Elimination
Use Cypermethrin (Cynoff EC) for spraying inside and out, and for drenching existing mounds and colonies. Treat (spray) beneath any object which might harbor ants. Fan-spray tree trunks, mulch and a good ground perimeter around your home. Treat any crack or crevice that might serve as a hiding place or entry point, both inside your home and on the outside surface with Cynoff. Use Delta Dust in cracks, crevices, hiding places and along plumbing lines when exterminating indoor ant populations.
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Argentine Ant Biology, Identification
The Argentine ant is a one node, small, shiny, brown ant with only one size of worker. Workers are usually about 1/12 to 1/8 inch long. The queen ants are much larger, sometimes reaching 1/4 inch in length. This ant is found throughout the Southeastern United States and Southern California. They nest outdoors under logs, concrete slabs, debris and mulch. Argentine ants build very large colonies and can move rapidly. During winter months, this ant will move indoors.
This ant is successful and hard to control because:
Different Argentine ant colonies in a same general locale are not enemies. Even the many queens in a single colony or separate colonies are friendly to each other. Argentine ants are not too "picky" when choosing a suitable site to infest or colonize. They readily (as you will read about in "Inspecting for Argentine Ants") move their nests during the changing seasons and other conditions. These pests are omnivorous; they seem to never be in short supply of food. Each colony of Argentine ants contains a multitude of workers. Each worker is more courageous and harder worker than most ants. Creatures that attempt to prey on Argentine ants are confronted with an army of stubborn bugs that never runs from a fight! The queens of most ant species are usually egg-laying machines. The queen ant of Argentines actually helps in the care, grooming and feeding of her young. Most species of ants mate and reproduce by swarming; the Argentine mates in the colony, unexposed to the perils of birds, frogs, lizards, predator insects and extreme weather conditions. A swarmer reproductive (as seen with fireants and carpenter ants) has about 1 chance in 1,000 of surviving and successfully reproducing. The Argentine ant queen always succeeds! This ant pest has no natural enemies (of any importance) in the United States.
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------------------------------------------------------------ Inspecting for Argentine Ants Top of Page
Without proper inspection, you will not kill ants of this type. All possible nests must be eliminated for ant control. After learning how to inspect for these pests, go to Argentine Ant elimination.
In the Spring, the nest can be found in open ground with small piles of excavated earth a short distance from the nest holes. Form boards along sidewalks, patios, driveways, and wooden objects of any kind are preferred as nesting sites and runways. The area beneath a plant infested with "ant cows" often will be honey-combed with their tunnels. The ants may be encountered in great numbers in and under dead and decaying stumps.
During warm weather, the Argentines might favor the undersides of houses and may use the mudsills as their runways, even establishing themselves in the home itself. During the Summer months, the nests of this ant are very shallow, usually only one or two inches below the surface of the soil. An occasional exception can be found in the roots of large trees located in favorable areas to the Argentine ant.
Argentine ants begin to migrate and congregate into super "ant cities" during Autumn, where you can find hundreds of queens. To locate these colonies, inspect beneath any ground "clutter" such as piles of construction materials, boards, sheets of tin or plywood and even decaying plant material. It is in these warm, protected areas that the Argentine Ant will retreat from the ravages of Winter.
Winter months can take their toll on many insect populations, if the insects have not found a suitable are to retreat. The Argentine ant will many times move their colonies into man-made structures. Although free standing homes might become targets of this pest, larger structures (apartment buildings, office buildings, condominiums, industrial sites, etc.) are more apt to be infested. Possible areas that need inspection include any warm, hidden areas (moisture often is another key; condensation, etc.) such as conduit pipes. In homes, hot water lines and areas around hot tubs are good examples of possible nesting sites. Spring brings us full circle in the migration of Argentine ants. The huge ant population breaks up into smaller groups, each containing one or more queen ants. These smaller groups will migrate to the areas discussed in the Spring months section of this article. In the case of overcrowding or "false Spring" you might find a small colony (containing one or two queen ants) trying to nest beneath a damp mop or wet dish rag and other such places. This is not often the case, but is well worth remembering when establishing an Integrated Pest Management (IPM) program or inspecting for possible Argentine ant colonies.
Argentine Ant Elimination Top of Page
Eliminating these pests should be done by combining chemical and non-chemical pest control in an Integrated Pest Management (IPM) program. For good pest control, use both methods in concert!
Non-chemical ant control methods Products and application for eliminating Argentine ants
Non-chemical control methods Top of Page Altering conditions which are contributing factors to Argentine ant infestations is the first order of business. Limiting their access to your home and restricting moisture in the area will reduce their numbers and make migration (during seasonal change) more difficult. If possible, make any structural changes that will reduce condensation (on windows, plumbing, interior walls, etc.) in your home. Do not allow excessive watering of lawns and flower beds create more moist conditions which Argentine ants dearly love. Adjust sprinkler heads accordingly. Remove any objects (such as boards, construction materials, etc.) under which Argentine ants might try to colonize or hide. Keeping vegetation to a minimum around your home will help. First, it will make inspecting for existing colonies easier. If all colonies are not eliminated, the infestation will constantly reappear and the pests will continue to enter the structure and spread across the entire property. Excess vegetation also gives the ant better cover in which to hide. But (and this is important!) the biggest problem with vegetation close to the home is that it acts as a bridge or highway for the ants to enter your home. Trim shrubs and trees so that they do not touch the structure. A two foot clearance is best. Make sure that no tree limbs are any closer than five feet from the roof. If possible, use pea-gravel instead of organic material for mulch. Argentine ants prefer organic materials, large pine bark and other such objects under which they will hide or colonize.
Products and application for eliminating Argentine ants Products Indoor Applications Outdoor Applications Argentine Ant Elimination Summary Order Products for Argentine Ant Elimination
Although Argentine ants will sometimes accept commercial baits, you will have greater control over the infestation by using contact insecticides. Baits are best to use only when there is an indoor infestation and the colonies cannot be located for treating with Delta Dust or pesticide sprays. The best active ingredient (i.e.) to use in eliminating Argentine ants is Cypermethrin. This material is available in Demon EC, Cynoff EC and Cypermethrin EC 4 Ounce. Each of these products contain Cypermethrin, each will yield different amounts: Demon EC makes 32 gallons; Cynoff EC makes 64 gallons; Cypermethrin EC makes 8 gallons. For most infestations of Argentine ants, Cypermethrin 4 Ounce is too small to treat all existing colonies and follow-up with regular preventative spraying. Most of our customers use Demon or Cynoff for Argentine Ants and Fire Ants. Although Cypermethrin is also available in wettable powder formulations (Demon WP, Cynoff WP,) liquid concentrates (any Cypermethrin in EC form) are more economical when dealing with ants which have large populations, multiple mounds and large mounds. Liquid concentrates simply give you more finished product for your money.
Indoor pesticide applications: If Argentine ants have invaded your home, spray Cypermethrin along baseboards, window sills, around plumbing or where ants are most often seen. If not, skip down to Outdoor Pesticide Application. Look for and spray any possible entry point or hiding place. Our Chapin sprayer has an adjustable tip for spraying entry points and baseboards or for slowly drenching ant mounds. If you have determined that the ants have established colonies in your walls, it may be necessary to apply an insecticide dust (Delta Dust is the best) to any void where you suspect ant or other insect activity. Use a Crusader Duster for applying Delta Dust to wall voids, cracks and crevices. For smaller infestations, insecticide dust might not be needed. If you know there are a great deal of these ants in your walls (or other inaccessible areas) but cannot locate them for dust application, bait indoors with Maxforce FG granular bait. Maxforce FG is also applied with a Crusader Duster. When using baits, do not use insecticide sprays or dusts in the same area. Insecticides will contaminate your bait.
Outdoor pesticide applications: Once all ant colonies have been located, treating the nests is quite simple. All visible mounds must be drenched (or soaked) with high volume of Cypermethrin under low pressure. Simply "fan-spraying" the surface of individual mounds does not work. Each nest needs to be thoroughly drenched. All mulch needs to be sprayed. Argentine ants will often thrive in the damp organic materials we use around our homes and in landscaping. Also spray a barrier around your home; an area 4 to 6 feet wide around the structure should suffice. Fan spray all tree trunks and soil adjacent to the trunk. Also, fan spray all landscape timbers, decorative stones and rocks, or any other object which might look inviting to Argentine ants.
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Summary of Argentine Ant Elimination
Use Cypermethrin (Demon EC, Cynoff EC, Cypermethrin EC 4 Oz.) for spraying inside and out, and for drenching existing mounds and colonies. Treat (spray) beneath any object which might harbor Argentine ants. Fan-spray tree trunks, mulch and a good ground perimeter around your home. Treat any crack or crevice that might serve as a hiding place or entry point, both inside your home and on the outside surface with Demon or Cynoff. Use Delta Dust in cracks, crevices, hiding places and along plumbing lines when exterminating indoor ant populations.
How to Order Argentine Ant Elimination Products
Click on any individual product or Ant Exterminator Kit to order on-line.
Ant Exterminator Kit -- Each Ant Exterminator Kit contains everything you need to eliminate ants from your home and property: 1 Pint Demon EC; 1 Pound Delta Dust; 1 Crusader Duster; our Chapin sprayer, which carries a life-time guarantee. Ant Exterminator Kit.
Cynoff EC -- Each Cynoff EC quart is $82 and will make 64 gallons of finished solution. Cannot be shipped to NY, NJ, CT, VT, AK
Demon EC -- Each pint of Demon EC is $59 and will make 32 gallons of solution. This 16 ounce container is our most popular size of Cypermethrin concentrate. Cannot be shipped to NY, NJ, CT, VT, AK
Cypermethrin EC -- Each 4 ounce bottle of concentrated Cypermethrin insecticide is $19.50 and makes 8 gallons solution. Cannot be shipped to AK, CA, ND, NY, TN, WI
Delta Dust -- Packaged in a 1 pound container that is $19.95. Delta Dust is the only formulation of its kind that is water proof. This characteristic makes the insecticide dust last longer in areas where moisture is prevalent. Cannot be shipped to NY, NJ, CT, VT, AK
Crusader Duster -- This insecticide dust applicator is used when placing dusts or fine baits into cracks & crevices. Each duster is $15.50.
Chapin Sprayer -- Our Chapin sprayer is only $39.50 and has a life-time guarantee! Professional Pest Control Do-It-Yourself
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Ants Argentine Ants Carpenter Ants Odorous House Ants Pavement Ants
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Ants fall into the biological order Hymenoptera, which includes wasps, hornets and bees. There are more than 10,000 species of ants known and there is evidence that these colonizing creatures have been around for more than 100 million years. Many species have the ability to sting when alarmed or attacking while others, like the tiny pharoh ant, are stingless. It is believed that some ants use their sense of smell for a number of important functions. Some species are actually able to distinguish one colony from another through olfactory nerves. Ants are known to release pheromones which effectively use the sense of smell to signal alarm, lay trails and attract co-workers to new food sources.
Ant colonies can contain up to 20 million individuals. Females do most of the work, including queen castes for reproduction and worker castes to gather food. The winged males appear on the scene often only to fertilize the queens. Ants usually live in nests of soil or wood, but can create huge nests made up of ants themselves interconnected in a large cylinder. The life cycle of the ant includes the egg, larvae and adult.
Ants are the number one pest problem for homes in most areas of the United States, particularly in the southern and western sections of the country. While there are more than 10,000 different ant species, only a small fraction of these generally trouble us as household pests.
Need to know how to get rid of ant in the home or business? Pest all Online offers you effective ways to get rid of ant.
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ARGENTINE ANT Linepithema humile
Color: Dark brown to black; shiny Legs: Six Shape: Segmented; oval Size: 1/16-1/4" Antennae: Yes Flight: No
Argentine ant colonies can grow to monumental size. Their colony borders sometimes cover entire habitats. Argentine ant queens also assist with foraging for food. The ant gives off a musty odor when crushed. Worker argentine ants are about one sixteenth of an inch long. Queen argentine ants are one eighth of an inch to one quarter of an inch long.
Habits Argentine ants deposit trails continuously, instead of just from nest to food source. This habit ensures they do not waste time visiting the same area for food. They prefer to eat sweets but they will eat almost anything including meats, eggs, oils and fats.
Habitat Argentine ant colonies are located in wet environments near a food source.
Threats Argentine ants do not pose a health threat, but they can contaminate food.
Prevention Eliminate standing water. Pests, such as Argentine ants are attracted to moisture. Keep tree branches and other plants cut back from the house. Sometimes pests use these branches to get into your home. Make sure that there are no cracks or little openings around the bottom of your house. Sometimes pests use these to get into your home. Make sure that firewood and building materials are not stored next to your home. Pests like to build nests in stacks of wood.
ARGENTINE ANT & SMALL ANT CONTROL
Sometimes just a cheap spray picked up at the grocery store is all you need to remove these small pesky ants from your house. But you would probably not be reading this article if this had worked for you.
How to use Maxforce Ant Bait to control ants invading your home and business.
FOR ANT CONTROL USING BAIT FOLLOW THESE GUIDELINES.
ARGENTINE ANT CONTROL
1. Bait Inside...The use of ant bait inside cupboards, closets, window sills, attics, crawl spaces and any other foraging places is necessary to control nests inside your home. Maxforce Granular Ant Bait is the best bait for this purpose. The worker ants distribute it throughout the colony. Control takes 7-14 days. Maxforce granular bait is a very finely ground bait about the size of pepper. It is very safe towards non-target organisms such as pets and birds but works on all species of small ants including the pharaoh, sugar, grease and fire ant. One container covers 1/3 of an acre so for best results distribute this bait throughout the house, attic, crawlspace and outside along the foundation. Maxforce also comes in Maxforce Ant Bait Stations for really neat people. We also sell Gourmet Ant Bait for the times that the ants prefer a sweet bait.
2. Bait Outside...If you just bait inside then you are inviting all the ants in the neighborhood to enter your house and have a snack. This is a losing battle. Bait outside around the foundation and on the window sills. Maxforce Granular works well for an outside ant bait. One 10 oz. container covers 1/3 of an acre, so use the entire container for best results. Maxforce also works on fire ants.
3. Spray Outside...One week after the outside baiting usea good residual spray containing Talstar One to spray all the entry points into the house such as windows, doors, fireplaces, plumbing, etc. This prevents the ants from re-establishing their scent trails and re-colonizing your house. This spray will also prevent roaches, spiders and crickets from entering your home. Repeat this perimeter spray once a month. Failure to repeat this step will allow ants to re-enter your home, many times in as little as 4-6 weeks!!! For small ant control using a combination of baits, sprays and dusts, follow these guidelines. Sometimes there are just too many ants for a baiting program to handle quickly. This happens in late summer and early fall, especially with argentine ants.
SMALL ANTCONTROL
1. Bait Inside...Use 1/2 of a 10 ounce container of Maxforce granular bait and all of the Drax inside. Put bait under appliances and sinks. Delta Dust may also be used inside the electrical boxes. Do NOT spray inside for 7 days.Gourmet Ant Bait Gel: This a new bait on the market. It comes with 4 bait stations, attracts both sweet and protein feeding ants. Very economical.
2. Spray Outside...Spray 4-8 gallons of a Talstar One solution outside only. Quantities must be used to insure proper penetration through the mulch and leaf litter. In addition spray all the entry points going to the inside of the house, such as windows, doors, plumbing, fireplaces, etc.
3. Spray Inside...After letting the bait stay undisturbed for one week (giving the workers plenty of time to pick it up and take it back to the nest) , then you can spray about one gallon of a cypermethrin solution inside and outside. Talstar One comes in many different sizes. See below or follow the links for a complete description of the most popular ones.
Gourmet Ant Bait Gel Maxforce Granular Maxforce Bait Stations Phantom Demon WP Cynoff EC Delta Dust Chapin one gallon insecticide sprayer
Best Buy! Ant bait kit For the smaller ants. A complete ant kit to fit all the dietary needs, for inside and outside.
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CARPENTER ANT Camponotus species
Color: Varies depending on species, from red to black or a combination. The two most common species are black. Legs: Six Shape: Segmented; oval Size: 5/8" Antennae: Yes Flight: No
Carpenter ants get their name because they excavate wood in order to build their nests. Their excavation results in smooth tunnels inside the wood. Carpenter ants range in size from one-quarter inch for a worker ant to up to three-quarters inch for a queen.
Habits All species mainly attack wood that is or has been wet and damaged by mold. Even though these ants first invade wet, decayed wood, they may soon begin building paths through dry, undamaged wood. They usually come into buildings through cracks around doors, windows, or through holes for wires. They will also crawl along overhead wires, shrubs, or tree limbs that touch the building far above the ground.
Habitat Carpenter ants build their nests outdoors in various wood sources, including tree stumps, firewood or landscaping. They need a constant water source to survive. They will enter homes through wet, damaged wood.
Threats Carpenter ants damage wood through their nest building. If they gain entry to a structure, they pose a property threat.
Prevention Because carpenter ants require a water source, eliminate sources of moisture or standing water. Keep tree branches and other plants cut back from the house. Sometimes pests use these branches to get into your home. Make sure that there are no cracks or little openings around the bottom of your house. Sometimes pests use these to get into your home. Make sure that firewood and building materials are not stored next to your home. Pests like to build nests in stacks of wood.
For immediate destruction of the Carpenter Ant colony, find and treat directly inside the carpenter ant nest. A good dust such as Drione works better than a liquid spray. A bellows duster such as the Crusader Duster is a valuable dust application tool.
If you cannot find the nest, then use Advance Carpenter Ant Bait. This is an effective granular bait especially formulated for carpenter ant control. It is both safe and easy to use. One pound is rated to cover one acre, and it can be used inside and outside the home. For faster control consider using Maxforce Carpenter Ant gel bait. This has a natural "honeydew attractant" that Carpenter Ants find irresistible. Using either one or both baits may not destroy the colony completely, but simply cripple it. For complete and immediate death of the entire carpenter ant colony, repair the water leak and treat the Carpenter Ant gallery with Drione dust.
Once activity has ceased spray the entry points outside of your home with a good residual insecticide such as Talstar One
Best Buy! Carpenter ant bait kit For the Carpenter ants. A complete ant kit to fit all the dietary needs, for inside and outside.
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odorous ants
Color: Brown or black Legs: Six Shape: Segmented; oval Size: 1/16-1/8" Antennae: Yes Flight: No
This ant gets its name from the strong, rotten coconut-like smell it gives off when crushed. These tiny insects range in size from one-sixteenth of an inch to one-eighth of an inch long.
Habits Odorous house ants like to eat sweets, especially melon.
Habitat Typically living for several years, these ants make their homes in exposed soil and wall cracks.
Threats These ants do not pose a public health risk, but they can contaminate food and should be avoided.
Prevention Eliminate standing water. Pests such as odorous house ants are attracted to moisture. Keep tree branches and other plants cut back from the house. Sometimes pests use these branches to get into your home. Make sure that there are no cracks or little openings around the bottom of your house. Sometimes pests use these to get into your home. Make sure that firewood and building materials are not stored next to your home. Pests like to build nests in stacks of wood. Remove potential food sources inside your home by wiping up spills, keeping counter tops clean, and store food, especially sweets, in sealed containers.
How to get rid of odorous ants?
To eliminate an Odorous house ant colony we recommend:
Gourmet Ant Bait Gel MaxForce Triple Ant Gel Bait
TOP PAVEMENT ANT Tetramorium caespitum
Color: Dark brown to blackish Legs: Six Shape: Segmented; oval Size: 1/8" Antennae: Yes Flight: No
Pavement ants get their name because they make their nests in or under cracks in pavement. They can infest structures.
Habits These ants will eat almost anything, including insects, seeds, honeydew, honey, bread, meats, nuts and cheese.
Habitat These ants live in or under pavement cracks.
Threats These ants do not pose a public health risk, but they can contaminate food and should be avoided.
Prevention Eliminate standing water. Pests, such as ants, are attracted to moisture. Keep tree branches and other plants cut back from the house. Sometimes pests use these branches to get into your home.* Make sure that there are no cracks or little openings around your house. Sometimes pests use these to get into your home. Make sure that firewood and building materials are not stored next to your home. Pests like to build nests in stacks of wood.
Need to kill pavement ants?
To eliminate or control an infestation of pavement ants we recommend:
Maxforce Granulars Termidor SC Gourmet Ant Bait Gel
TOP RED IMPORTED FIRE ANT Solenopsis invicta
Color: Dark reddish brown Legs: Six Shape: Segmented; oval Size: 1/8-3/8" Antennae: Yes Flight: No
Red imported fire ants nest in soil and build mound nests. They can infest garages.
Habits These ants will build large mound nests, and will sting humans who come across a nest.
Habitat Red imported fire ants will build their nest mounds outdoors in landscape areas or near a structural foundation. The ant will gain entry to a building through holes or cracks.
Threats The sting of a red imported fire ant is painful and often results in a raised welt that becomes a white pustule. Often, a person stung by a red imported fire ant receives multiple painful stings from more than one of the ants. Persons allergic to insect stings will react more severely.
Prevention Red imported fire ants and their telltale mound nests should be actively avoided. To prevent entry into a structure, seal all internal and external cracks and crevices.
How to get rid of fire ant
1. Baits... Baits work best when used in the spring and are not recommended for use after July 1. When the weather gets hot and dry, no bait will be very effective for fire ant control. Baits work slowly----ant activity will gradually decrease over a period of 30 days. The best fire ant bait on the market today is Maxforce Granular Fire Ant Bait. One pound will cover one and one half acres. Whenever baiting do not disturb the mound, put the bait around the mound, not on top of the fire ant mound. Baits are easy to use and safe for nontarget animals but they are slow.
2. Contact Insectcide... This is definitely the quickest and most complete route to make your yard fire ant free. Many different insecticides will work but we recommend cypermethrin. Cypermethrin is fast and cost effective. Use only 1/2 ounce of cypermethrin per gallon of water. The trick to killing a fire ant mound completely is to use a lot of volume, not a strong percentage of insecticide. Poke a couple of holes into the mound and then pour 1/2 to one gallon of finished solution into the mound, depending on the size of the mound. You then spray in between the big mounds with cypermethrin, using a hose end sprayer, to eliminate all the small sattelite mounds.
3. Retreatment... Because fire ants are continually re-colonizing, re-treatments should be made on the emerging mounds throughout the year.
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VELVET ANTS - COW KILLERS Various
Color: Body Black, Covered with long white or yellowish setae. Legs: Six Shape: Segmented; oval Size: 1/8-7/8" Antennae: Yes Flight: Male - Yes / Female - No
Velvet ants are not ants at all but rather solitary female wasps. These ants parasitize bee and wasp nests. The females are quite large (up to 1/2 inch) ,wingless, very hairy and colored bright orange or red with black in between. The sting from one of these wasps is one of the most painful of any insect.
Most of the time only one of these wasps is seen at a time, posing no problem. But at times there are many located in one area. Spraying with a Cypermethrin compound will keep these wasps and ants under control. Cypermethrin (Cynoff WP.) is a synthetic pyrethroid insecticide that is very safe to humans, pets and wildlife but is very effective against a wide range of insects including ants, fire ants, roaches, spiders and crickets
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Rodents ( Rat & Mice )
House mice are considered the most troublesome and economically important rodents in the United States. Not only are they found in houses, but in other structures as well. They are the most common mammal in cities next to man. House mice live in and around homes, farms and commercial establishments as well as in open fields and agricultural lands. The onset of the cold weather each fall in temperate regions causes more to move into structures in search of shelter and food. One of the most common signs of infestations in structures is their droppings. House mice eat many types of food but prefer seeds and grain. Mice can get by with little or no free water, although they readily drink when it is available. House mice cause structural damage to buildings by their gnawing and nest building activities. They often make nests in large electrical appliances, where they may chew up wiring as well as other insulation resulting in short-circuits, possible fires or other malfunctions that are expensive to repair. Additionally, mice may damage stored items and wiring in attics, basements, garages, or museums such as family heirlooms, paintings, book, documents, pictures, etc.
Professional Rat Control Procedures:
The proper procedures for rodent control are sometimes a difficult chore for a homeowner. The information below is provided to help the inexperienced make the necessary decisions for a successful rodent control program. All of the rodent control products you will need are provided throughout these pages. If your rat infestation is only in the yard and there are no pets or children on the premises, you only need to purchase the CONTRAC BLOX RAT and MOUSE BAIT. Place the bait blocks in the rat holes or any noticeable paths in the yard. Regular movements (foraging) of rats will leave paths in the grass. Contrac Blox will kill rats and kill rats fast. It is a single-feed bait.
When children or pets are present, tamper resistant rodent stations are needed. You need to purchase theProtecta LP(LowProfile)Rat Stations or the regular Protecta Rat Stations.
We recommend that you choose the larger Protecta Rat Stations if a combination rat trapping & rat baiting program is necessary.
BEST BUY We now offer a Mice Kit &Rats KITS containing
The Trapper T-Rax Snap Traps / Rat are used inside the Protecta Rat Stations when children or pets are present or will be present. If you suspect a rat problem is within your walls or indoors, baiting is not an option. Baiting inside for large animals such as rats will only increase your problem. Baiting will quickly solve the rat infestation but will create 3 more problems. #1: Odor from the dead animals #2: Maggots and thousands of flies and #3: The dead rats are rarely located. The odor from the dead rats will linger for several weeks.
Indoor treatments should be done with baited traps or glue boards. We recommend the Trapper T-Rax Snap Traps / Rat because they are easier, sanitary and safer to handle. The pre-formed holes in the rat trap base allow for surface mounting if it s needed. Your fingers never touch the dead rodent. The Trapper T-Rax Snap Traps / Rat are easy to clean and can be reused for years. They are simple, safe, and sanitary. They will kill rats every time the trap is sprung. No rats will be able to steal the bait.
After setting the baited traps indoors you will also need to place some traps outside in the regular Protecta (Tamper Resistant) Rat Stations. The Protecta Rat Station keeps the Trapper T-Rax Snap Traps / Rat out of harms way to little children or pets. This larger station can be used with the Trapper T-Rax Snap Traps / Rat and follow-up maintenance rat baiting or trapping.
All points of entry should be sealed the same time you start your rodent control program. Why? A rat will not change his habits easily, especially if he already has a safe path to food and water. Sealing his points of entry will disrupt his normal routine and cause him to wonder off the usual path. You will then start catching the rats. If you want the right rodent control products to kill rats, we have all the supplies you will need to succeed. Stuf-fit Access Control copper mesh is the very best for most access control sealing jobs. Some holes may require concrete.
If you follow the procedures that apply to your particular kind of infestation you WILL solve your problem. YOUR PROBLEM SOLUTION (1) Rats in Yard (No children or Pets) Contrac Weather Blocs (Place in holes or rodent paths) (2) Rats seen in Home or heard in walls. (No children or Pets) Trapper T-Rax Snap Traps / Rat in attic, kitchen, & outside (3) Rats are in Yard or Home (Children & Pets are Present) Protecta with the Trapper T-Rax Snap Traps / Rat inside, outside or both. (4) Not sure about the noise in the walls. Trapper glue boards (Large & stronger) Pre-scented with peanut butter. Also good monitoring tool. (5) You suspect it is squirrels making the noise. You need Live Traps, Funnel traps is what you will need & this will funnel them out of your attic or wall. Use conventional traps to trap returning squirrels that are retiring for the day.
If shingles or insulation is on the ground, you may have raccoons. Check for paw prints on the gutter downspouts or hair on a tree trunk. Raccoon traps can be purchased at this TOP
Deer Mice Peromyscus maniculatus
Color: Brown, with white feet and underbelly Legs: Four Shape: Round Size: 5 to 8 inches long Antennae: No Flight: No The deer mouse rarely invades homes, and is found in rural areas.
Habits The deer mouse prefers the outdoors.
Habitat The deer mouse makes its home outdoors in sheltered areas such as hollow tree logs or piles of debris. On the rare occasions the deer mouse comes indoors, it prefers undisturbed areas such as attics.
Threats The deer mouse transmits the potentially fatal Hantavirus Pulmonary Syndrome. The disease can be transmitted through contact with mouse carcasses, or by breathing in aerosolized urine droplets of infected deer mice.
Prevention To keep mice and other rodents out, make sure all holes of larger diameter than a pencil are sealed. Mice can squeeze through spaces as small as a nickel. Seal any cracks and voids. Don't overlook proper drainage at the foundation and always install gutters or diverts which will channel water away from the building. Use heavy gloves and protective breathing gear when working in an area populated by deer mice.
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House Mice Mus Domesticus
Color: Light brown to black Legs: Four Shape: Round Size: 2" Antennae: No Flight: No
The house mouse is the most common rodent pest in most parts of the world. It can breed rapidly and adapt quickly to changing conditions.
Habits House mice can breed throughout the year and can share nests.
Habitat House mice live in structures, but they can live outdoors.
Threats Micro droplets of mouse urine can cause allergies in children. Mice can also bring fleas, mites, ticks and lice into your home.
Prevention To keep mice and other rodents out, make sure all holes of larger diameter than a pencil are sealed. Mice can squeeze through spaces as small as a nickel. Seal any cracks and voids. Don't overlook proper drainage at the foundation and always install gutters or diverts which will channel water away from the building.
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Norway Rats Rattus norvegicus
Color: Gray, brown or black Legs: Four Shape: Long Size: 10 to 12 inches (8" body plus 4" tail) Antennae: No Flight: No These rats have smaller eyes and ears and shorter tails.
Habits Rats are excellent climbers and often enter a home in the fall when outside food sources become scarce.
Habitat Norway rats live in fields, farm lands and in structures. Rats are often found in woodpiles. Rodents can gain entry to a home through a hole the size of a quarter.
Threats Rats can chew through wiring, causing fires. They also spread numerous diseases.
Prevention Keep firewood stored well away from the structure. Remove debris piles. Seal any holes larger than 1/4 inch. Remove moisture and harborage sources.
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Roof Rats Rattus rattus
Color: Black Legs: Four Shape: Long Size: 16" total (6-8" body plus 6-8" tail) Antennae: No Flight: No
Roof rats get their name from their tendency to be found in the upper parts of buildings. Ranging in size from 6 to 8 inches in length, not including their tails, they have very poor vision and are color blind. They do have extremely strong senses of hearing, smell, touch and taste.
Habits Roof rats are known for the damage they cause by chewing on materials and eating stored foods.
Habitat Roof rats can be found in the upper parts of buildings, and can also be found under, in and around structures. They only need a space of one-half inch to get into buildings.
Threats Roof rats secured their place in history by spreading the highly dangerous bubonic plague. They support many ectoparasites and urinate on food.
Prevention To prevent rats from entering a home, seal up any holes or cracks larger than a quarter. Remove sources of moisture and harborage.
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Roach
Need to know how to get rid of cockroaches in the home or business? Pest Products Online offers you effective ways to get rid of roaches. Because they reproduce rapidly and can enter your home in mass numbers, roaches can be difficult to control. Once inside, they can destroy books, photographs, electric appliances, and furniture by leaving their unsightly droppings causing a foul odor. These insects are known to spread bacteria, carry parasitic worms, and other diseases. As they forage for food, they can deposit germs and bacteria on counter tops, dishes, and in food, which can cause food poisoning, dysentery, or diarrhea. Some people are allergic to roaches and medical studies have shown that cockroaches are responsible for childhood asthma
Roaches can't help the fact that to most humans, they are unwanted company. It's funny, though, how these pesky insects can often make a grown man or woman scream, tremble and run for cover. If you have a roach problem and the Raid TM just isn't working, and if you want to get rid of roaches in your house,
Pest Products Online offers you effective ways to get rid of roaches.
Because they reproduce rapidly and can enter your home in mass numbers, roaches can be difficult to control. Once inside, they can destroy books, photographs, electric appliances, and furniture by leaving their unsightly droppings causing a foul odor.
These insects are known to spread bacteria, carry parasitic worms, and other diseases. As they forage for food, they can deposit germs and bacteria on counter tops, dishes, and in food, which can cause food poisoning, dysentery, or diarrhea. Some people are allergic to roaches and medical studies have shown that cockroaches are responsible for childhood asthma Roaches can't help the fact that to most humans, they are unwanted company. It's funny, though, how these pesky insects can often make a grown man or woman scream, tremble and run for cover. If you have a roach problem and the Raid TM just isn't working, and if you want to get rid of roaches in your house, we have a 5 step cure that's proven to work.
Basically, there are 5 species of roaches that are common in the Western Hemisphere. It is interesting to note that each of these cockroaches has it's own distinct habits and traits, each cockroach behaves differently. Therefore each must be treated differently.
For instance, the German cockroach (the number 1 roach in the USA) is an indoor roach. Sometimes they are called kitchen roaches or grocery store roaches because they live in kitchens and bathrooms and infest cabinets. Most of the time they are brought in through goods from the grocery store. Brown Banded Roaches are also an indoor roach. They are common to closets where you will find small clusters of eggs glued to the ceiling or to the walls. For these two roaches you must treat indoors, especially cabinets and closets. Smoky Brown, American and Oriental roaches can grow up to 2 or more inches in length and are commonly called water roaches, waterbugs, palmetto bugs, etc.. These roaches live outdoors and treatment outdoors and especially under pier and beam homes (one of their favorite hiding places) will help to keep them away.
5 Steps to a Happier, Bug Free Home.
Step 1: Cut down on their food supply You will leave less food for the roaches if you: Vacuum or sweep the floor after every meal. Wash dishes in soapy, hot water to eliminate all traces of grease. Keep trash in a tight-lidded container. Keep compost as far from the house as possible. Cover each new "deposit" with a fresh layer of sand or soil. Store unused portions of chips, cereal, cookies, flour, sugar, rice, etc. in tightly sealed plastic containers or large glass jars with screw-on lids. After a pet has eaten, remove their food bowl and sweep the floor. Don't walk through the house eating: contain crumbs in one room (less cleaning for you). Don't forget to clean crumbs from under appliances daily.
Step 2: Hit'em Where They Hide ! Treatment for roaches involves more than using Raid. Use what the Pros use and you will get results. Use Demon WP or Suspend SC and spray the outside perimeter. (2 feet out and 2 feet up) Also spray around the windows, doors, eaves and any cracks or crevices that lead into the structure. You have to stop them from getting in. Use Borid (Boric Acid) and put it into the nooks and crannies where roaches hide. They is easily accomplished by looking for small cracks and crevices along counters, behind and under cabinets, etc. For a "SUPER" cockroach treatment, remove all the switch plates and plumbing covers throughout the structure and puff Borid into the switches or into the walls. This usually requires about 2 lbs of Borid for an average size structure. Sub areas under houses and attics may also need a light dusting of Borid. Put the boric acid in a clean, dry duster such as the Centrobulb mini hand duster. Using a flashlight, inspect cracks in areas where you have spied roaches. Remember to check cracks between walls and floors, behind sinks and under appliances. Where you can see them hiding, puff the boric acid into the cracks. Place Maxfoce roach gel in small pea size placements in cabinets, along counters, etc.. Maxfoce Roach Gel can also be placed under and behind appliances, furniture etc. Maxfoce Roach Bait Stations can be used for TV's, computers and sensitive electronic equipment. Use an IGR (Insect Growth Regulator) such as Gentrol or Point Source in really heavy roach infestations. If you are seeing more than 4 or 5 roaches on a regular basis, then using a growth regulator will give you much faster control. IGR's stop baby cockroaches from maturing into fertile adults, thereby interrupting the egg laying process.
Step 3: Monitor, Monitor, Monitor ! If you don't know where they are, how can you kill all of them? Use roach monitors (sticky traps) such as the Victor Roach Monitor or the Trapper LTD and place them wherever you think roaches are. By using monitors, you can easily find "pockets" of roach hiding places, you may even find them in places you never thought of. Use lots of monitors and check them every 2 weeks or until the problem is gone. Monitors do not contain any pesticides, are safe and allow for a professional style inspection. 3 or more monitors per room is what is recommended. Place them under furniture, cabinets, behind appliances, inside dressers, nightstands, be creative. When you find roaches in a monitor check to see if they are baby roaches, or adults. Finding baby roaches could lead you closer to the hiding spot. Check everything within a 10 foot radius of the trap. If roaches are found, treat as described in step 2. Put out a new monitor and check it again in a couple of weeks.
Step 4: Dry Up Their Water Supply Like humans, roaches can go much longer without food than without water. To keep roaches away, keep them thirsty. Fix dripping faucets. Pour some Lysol into toilets at night to make the water undrinkable. Keep sink plugs over drains. Don't over water house plants. Soggy soil is a delicious cockroach cocktail.
Step 5: Keep Them Out ! To prevent roaches from migrating from your neighbor's place to yours, seal up common roach entryways. Fill holes where pipes disappear into walls with Stuffit copper wool or caulk. Cracks around windows, eaves, doors, etc, need to be caulked. Doors need to have door sweeps so that roaches can't crawl under them. On slab foundations, seal the weep holes with Stuffit copper wool. On pier and beam foundations, make sure that all the vents are screened or sealed. Cockroach control usually requires an ongoing treatment program. Many pest control companies will require a monthly or quarterly treatment to guarantee that roaches will not come back. Why not setup your own program ? Like the old saying goes an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, and in this case that saying is 100% correct ! It only takes a few ounces of the right pesticides placed into strategic places like those listed above every few months to get good cockroach control. Don't expect to treat only 1 time and the cockroaches to be gone forever. Mark your calendar and treat your home or structure at least on a quarterly basis. If you do, you will get good control, you will be happy with the results, and most of all, you will have saved yourself several hundred dollars in the process !
Basically, there are 5 species of roaches that are common in the Western Hemisphere. It is interesting to note that each of these cockroaches has it's own distinct habits and traits, each cockroach behaves differently. Therefore each must be treated differently.
For instance, the German cockroach (the number 1 roach in the USA) is an indoor roach. Sometimes they are called kitchen roaches or grocery store roaches because they live in kitchens and bathrooms and infest cabinets. Most of the time they are brought in through goods from the grocery store. Brown Banded Roaches are also an indoor roach. They are common to closets where you will find small clusters of eggs glued to the ceiling or to the walls. For these two roaches you must treat indoors, especially cabinets and closets. Smoky Brown, American and Oriental roaches can grow up to 2 or more inches in length and are commonly called water roaches, waterbugs, palmetto bugs, etc.. These roaches live outdoors and treatment outdoors and especially under pier and beam homes (one of their favorite hiding places) will help to keep them away.
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American Cockroach
Color: Reddish brown, with a yellowish figure 8 pattern on the back of the head Legs: Six Shape: Oval Size: 2" Antennae: Yes Flight: Yes
Habits American cockroaches are found in food processing areas and food storage areas, as well as other types of buildings. They are active when the temperature is 70 degrees or higher, but they can survive lower temperatures with the right conditions.
Habitat American cockroaches are often found in sewers and basements, particularly around pipes and drains.
Threats Cockroaches have been reported to spread at least 33 kinds of bacteria, six kinds of parasitic worms, and at least seven other kinds of human pathogens. They can pick up germs on the spines of their legs and bodies as they crawl through decaying matter or sewage and then carry these into food or onto food surfaces. Germs that cockroaches eat from decaying matter or sewage are protected while in their bodies and may remain infective for several weeks longer than if they had been exposed to cleaning agents, rinse water, or just sunlight and air. ecent medical studies have shown that cockroach allergens cause lots of allergic reactions in inner city children. They were even shown to cause asthma in children. These allergens build up in deposits of droppings, secretions, cast skins, and dead bodies of roaches.
Prevention Good sanitation and habitat reduction, along with vacuuming, surveillance, a baiting program, and some sealing of cracks can usually quickly reduce or eliminate a cockroach population.
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Brownbanded Cockroaches
Color: Brown, with pronounced banding across wings Legs: Six Shape: Oval Size: 1/2" Antennae: Yes Flight: Yes
Brown banded cockroaches get their name from the two lighter bands they have across their dark brownish bodies. In addition to the distinctive banding, males have full wings, which reach beyond the tip of their rather pointed abdomens, but females have underdeveloped wings, much shorter than their broad, rounded abdomens. The lighter band markings are much more distinct in nymphs than in adults of either sex.
Habits Male brownbanded cockroaches have been observed to fly indoors. Among cockroach species, brownbanded cockroaches have the most distinctions between sexes. Females have larger abdomen and shorter wings than males. Brownbanded cockroaches often hide their egg cases in or under furniture.
Habitat Within a room, these roaches tend to prefer warmer, drier, and higher locations than do any of the other urban pest roaches. They are often found in upper cabinets or in other rooms than the kitchens (food preparation areas) or bathrooms.
Threats Cockroaches have been reported to spread at least 33 kinds of bacteria, six kinds of parasitic worms, and at least seven other kinds of human pathogens. They can pick up germs on the spines of their legs and bodies as they crawl through decaying matter or sewage and then carry these into food or onto food surfaces. Germs that cockroaches eat from decaying matter or sewage are protected while in their bodies and may remain infective for several weeks longer than if they had been exposed to cleaning agents, rinse water, or just sunlight and air. ecent medical studies have shown that cockroach allergens cause lots of allergic reactions in inner city children. They were even shown to cause asthma in children. These allergens build up in deposits of droppings, secretions, cast skins, and dead bodies of roaches.
Prevention Good sanitation and habitat reduction, along with vacuuming, surveillance, a baiting program, and some sealing of cracks can usually quickly reduce or eliminate a cockroach population.
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Oriental Cockroaches
Color: Dark brown, almost black Legs: Six Shape: Oval Size: 1" Antennae: Yes Flight: No
Oriental Cockroaches, Blatta orientalis (L.), are large very dark (almost black, but sometimes dark reddish-brown), shiny cockroaches which live in sewers and similar wet, decaying organic matter. They are sometimes called ater bugs because they come out of drains, and lack beetle cockroaches?because of their smooth, dark bodies. Males are about 1 inch long, with wings that cover only about 3/4 of their abdomen; females are about 1 1/4 inch long, and have only short stubs of wing pads.
Habits This species of cockroach often travels through sewer pipes. It survives on filth and enjoys temperatures from 68 to 84 degrees. This is a cooler temperature than that preferred by other cockroach species.
Habitat Oriental cockroaches are often found in sewers and will enter structures through drains. They find indoor harborage in basements and crawl spaces. They can also be found in leaf piles and firewood outdoors.
Threats Cockroaches have been reported to spread at least 33 kinds of bacteria, six kinds of parasitic worms, and at least seven other kinds of human pathogens. They can pick up germs on the spines of their legs and bodies as they crawl through decaying matter or sewage and then carry these into food or onto food surfaces. Germs that cockroaches eat from decaying matter or sewage are protected while in their bodies and may remain infective for several weeks longer than if they had been exposed to cleaning agents, rinse water, or just sunlight and air. ecent medical studies have shown that cockroach allergens cause lots of allergic reactions in inner city children. They were even shown to cause asthma in children. These allergens build up in deposits of droppings, secretions, cast skins, and dead bodies of roaches.
Prevention Good sanitation and habitat reduction, along with vacuuming, surveillance, a baiting program, and some sealing of cracks can usually quickly reduce or eliminate a cockroach population.
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To control Spiders we recommand
Tempo SC ECO Pco ACU Bifen I/T
See All Our Spider Products
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Black widow spiders are most recognized for the red hourglass shape on the back. Contrary to legend, female black widow spiders rarely devour the male black widow spider after mating. Black widow spiders spin their webs near ground level. They often build their webs in protected areas, such as in boxes and in firewood. Black widow spiders are often found around wood piles and gain entry into a structure when firewood is carried into a building. They are also found under eaves, in boxes, and other areas where they are undisturbed. The venom of a black widow spider is a neurotoxin and is used as a defense. Black widow spiders do not bite humans instinctively. The black widow spider bite can cause severe pain. Young children and the elderly are especially susceptible to a severe reaction to a black widow spider bite. Avoid black widow spider bites by wearing heavy gloves when moving items that have been stored for a long period of time. Spiders often hide in shoes, so check shoes and shake them out before wearing. When spider webs are visible, use caution before putting your hands or feet in that area.
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Brown recluse spiders have a characteristic dark brown violin marking on their back. Brown recluse spiders are nocturnal and eat other bugs like cockroaches and crickets. Male brown recluse spiders wander farther than females and will crawl into shoes or other clothing. Brown recluse spiders often live outdoors in debris and wood piles. They can be found indoors in storage areas and dark recesses. Like the black widow spider, the brown recluse spider bites in defense and does not bite humans instinctively. They will bite humans when the clothing they are hiding in is worn. The brown recluse spider bite is painful and can produce an open, ulcerating sore. To avoid brown recluse spiders, avoid keeping clothing on the floor. Store clothing and shoes inside plastic containers, and shake out all clothing that has been in a hamper before wearing or washing.
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House Flies
Color: Dark gray Legs: Six Shape: Small oval Size: 1/4 of an inch Antennae: Yes Flight: Yes
House flies get their name from being the most common fly found around homes. Adult house flies can grow to one-quarter of an inch long and usually live between 15 and 25 days.
Habits They are only able to feed on liquids but have the ability to turn many solid foods into a liquid for them to eat. House flies taste with their feet, which are 10 million times more sensitive to sugar than the human tongue.
Habitat House flies tend to stay within 1-2 miles of where they were born; however, they have been known to migrate up to 20 miles to find food.
Threats These insects have been known to carry over 100 different kinds of disease-causing germs, which makes them very bad house guests.
Prevention House flies can be controlled through vigilant sanitation. Remove trash regularly and use well-sealing garbage receptacles. Clean up pet waste immediately. Use fine mesh screens on doors and windows to prevent fly entry.
To eliminate house flies from your kitchen, we recommend:
Maxforce Granular Fly Bait QUIKSTRIKE FLY ABATEMENT STRIP 2pcs Drain Gel
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Fruit Flies
Color: Tan/ light abdomen Legs: Six Shape: Small oval Size: 1/8 of an inch Antennae: Yes Flight: Yes
Fruit flies feed on decaying fruits and vegetables.
Habits Fruit flies feed on decaying matter, especially fruits and vegetables.
Habitat Fruit flies are small pests that are commonly found in homes, restaurants and other facilities where food is processed. They are found on moist, decaying matter that has been stationary for several days.
Threats Fruit flies are found in unsanitary conditions, so they are a potential heath concern, especially when present in health facilities.
Prevention Fruit flies are best prevented through vigilant sanitation practices. Remove kitchen trash daily, and keep counter surfaces clean.
To eliminate house flies from your kitchen, we recommend:
Vector Fruit Fly Trap Fly-web-light Vector Discreet Drain Gel
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Bed Bugs
Color: Mahogany to rusty brown; red after a blood meal Legs: Six Shape: Flat; broad oval Size: 1/4 Antennae: Yes Flight: No
Bedbugs get their name because they like to live and feed in beds.
Habits Bedbugs like to travel and will hide in suitcases, boxes and shoes to be near a food supply. They are elusive, nocturnal creatures. They can hide behind baseboards, electrical switchplates, picture frames, even wall paper. They come out at night for a blood meal.
Habitat Bedbugs like to hide in small cracks and crevices close to a human environment. They can be found behind baseboards, wallpaper, upholstery, and in furniture crevices.
Threats Although bedbugs can dine on any warm-blooded animal, they primarily dine on humans. Bedbugs do not transmit diseases, but their bites can become red, itchy welts.
Prevention Vacuum suitcases after returning from a vacation. Check your bedsheets for tell-tale blood spots. Bedbugs are elusive creatures, so it is imperative to seek professional pest control to address an infestation.
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Flea
Fleas cannot breed unless the host animal is present, for example a cat flea can only breed whilst there is a resident cat. They will however jump onto other animals or humans and feed on the blood to survive.
Size: Small, wingless, about 1/12- to 1/6-inch long. Covered in spines with piercing mouthparts. Reddish brown color
Fleas cannot breed unless the host animal is present, for example a cat flea can only breed whilst there is a resident cat. They will however jump onto other animals or humans and feed on the blood to survive.
Habits
A parasite that attaches to a host
Feeding & Breeding
Like other fleas found in homes, they cause discomfort by biting, but they can also transmit several diseases such as plague and urine typhus. Larvae feed on organic debris, particularly the feces of adult fleas, which contain undigested blood. Eggs are not attached to the host. Eggs will hatch on the ground, in nests, carpet, bedding, upholstery or cracks in the floor. Most hatch within 7 to 14 days.
Control Tips
You may be able to control a small flea infestation by taking these simple steps:
Check and treat your pets with an appropriate flea spray or powder using the product as directed on the container. The infested area should be thoroughly cleaned using a vacuum cleaner, paying particular attention to carpet or floor edges. Pet bedding and upholstery should be thoroughly vacuumed and where possible washed. Washing should be done preferably at a temperature of 50¡ÆC or more, but more importantly in accordance with the care labels. The infested areas should then be treated with an insecticide spray formulated for fleas. Once you have sprayed the areas you should leave them for ten days before vacuuming thoroughly and repeating the treatment.
The insecticide will kill only adult fleas, it does not kill flea eggs, and this is why you will possibly need to repeat the treatment more than once for it to be effective.
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Carpenter Bees
Color: Blue-black, green or purple metallic sheen on abdomen Legs: Six Shape: Oval; bee shape Size: 1 Antennae: Yes Flight: Yes
Carpenter bees look like typical bumblebees but often lack yellow stripes. They are solitary bees.
Habits
Unlike bumble bees, carpenter bees are solitary insects. Female carpenter bees will chew a tunnel into a piece of wood to build a nest gallery. The bits of wood she chews and deposits outside the nest are called frass. The male carpenter bee guards the outside of the nest. He does not have a stinger, but his constant buzzing causes concern for some.
Habitat
Carpenter bees bore through soft woods to lay eggs and protect their larvae as they develop.
Threats
Carpenter bees do not pose a public health threat, but they can damage wood through their nest building.
Prevention
Carpenter bees prefer bare wood, so painting and staining wood can sometimes deter them. However, they will sometimes attack stained or painted wood, so contact a pest control professional for assistance.
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Africanized ("Killer") Bees
Color: Golden-yellow with darker bands of brown. Legs: Six Shape: Oval; bee shape Size: 1/2 Antennae: Yes Flight: Yes
Africanized "killer" bees looks so much like a regular honeybee that the only way to tell the two apart is by measuring their bodies. Africanized bees have different wing measurements than honeybees.
Habits
These bees defend their colony and attack when threatened.
Habitat
Africanized bees have small colonies, so they can build nests in unique places. They have been known to live in tires, crates, boxes, and empty cars.
Threats
Their venom is no more dangerous than regular honeybees-they just tend to attack in greater numbers, which causes more danger to humans.
Prevention
Because of the aggressive nature of these pests and the enormity of their nests, a pest control professional or beekeeper must address an infestation. If you are chased by Africanized honeybees, run in a zig zag pattern and seek shelter in a house or car.
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Bumble Bees
Color: Black with yellow stripes Legs: Six Shape: Oval; bee shape Size: 1" Antennae: Yes Flight: Yes
Bumble bees are beneficial insects because they pollinate crops and plants.
Habits
The occupant of a disturbed bumble bee nest will buzz in a loud volume. They defend their nests aggressively.
Habitat
Bumble bees often nest in the ground, but can be found above ground around patio areas or decks. They will sometimes build their ness in soffits of attics.
Threats
As part of their aggressive defense of their nests, bumble bees will chase nest invaders for a considerable distance. The bumble bee sting is one of the most painful. Unlike honey bees, bumble bees can sting more than once.
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Honey Bees
Color: Predominantly golden-yellow with brown bands Legs: Six Shape: Oval; bee shape Size: 1/2 Antennae: Yes Flight: Yes
Honey bees are social insects found all over the world. They are an extremely important beneficial insect because of their role in pollination. Honey bees pollinate more than 100 crops in the U.S.
Habits
Honeybees are active pollinators, and produce honey which feeds their young in colder months. The honeybee is the only social insect whose colony can survive many years.
Habitat
Honeybees produce honey from pollen and nectar of the plants they pollinate. They store the honey in honeycombs in their nests. They often build their nests in tree crevices, but will occasionally build nests in attics or chimneys.
Threats
Honeybees do sting, but they only sting once. The sting can be extremely painful if the stinger is not immediately removed from the sting. Persons allergic to insect stings will have a more severe reaction.
Prevention
Honeybees should be addressed by a professional. Removal of a honeybee nest and the honey product can be very messy. Because honeybee colonies are so large, only a pest control professional or experienced beekeeper can safely remove a honeybee nest.
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Wasp
Color: Yellow and black Legs: Six Shape: bee shape ,black head and thorax. Size: 3/8~5/8 inch long Antennae: Yes Flight: Yes
The wasps can cause alarm when present in large numbers and if the nest is in a place where the individuals from it interfere with humans they can inflict painful and sometimes dangerous stings
Damage
Hundreds (perhaps thousands) of people in the United States die each year from allergic reactions to the venom of this insect. Wasp is more dangerous and unpredictable than honey bees
Appearance
Size: They are fairly large insects approximately 30mm in length. Color: Their bodies have a characteristic black and yellow band across the abdomen
Habitat
Wasp nests may be found in roof spaces, wall cavities and air grates of buildings, hanging from trees, as well as underground. A normal nest can contain from 3,000 to 5,000 individuals depending on its size, by late summer.
Control Tips
Knockdown insecticidal aerosol spray i.e. "Flying Insect Killer" can be used to treat occasional wasps that become a problem when they appear indoors. Nests that are built in lofts or under eaves are more difficult to treat yourself and are best treated from the outside. If the nest is treated from inside the loft you may not be able to get at the nest entrance to treat if effectively and if you disturb the nest during treatment you may encounter a swarm of angry wasps trying to protect their nest.
***REMEMBER***
Extreme care must be exercised when treating wasp nests.
Anteaters Pest Control Program will protect your home and family from Wasp.
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Mosquitoes
Color: Varies; Pale brown with whitish stripes across abdomen Legs: Six Shape: Narrow Oval Size: 1/4-3/8" Antennae: Yes Flight: Yes
One of the best known summer pests, mosquitoes breed in stagnant water or soft soil and can develop from egg to adult in 10 to 14 days.
Habits
Female mosquitoes suck our blood. Male mosquitoes feed on plant nectars. They can develop from egg to adult in 10 to 14 days. They are most active from dusk to dawn and will fly up to 14 miles for a blood meal.
Habitat
Mosquitoes breed in stagnant water sources such as storm drains, old tires, children's wading pools and birdbaths.
Threats
Mosquitoes are well-known to spread diseases such as West Nile Virus, malaria and dengue fever.
Prevention
Eliminate or reduce mosquito breeding sites by replacing all standing water at least once a week. This includes bird baths, ponds and unfiltered pools. Remove unneeded vegetation or trash from around any standing water sources that cannot be changed, dumped or removed. Introduce mosquito-eating fish such as gambusia, green sunfish, bluegills and minnows to standing water. Screen windows, doors and other openings with mesh. Avoid going outdoors when and where mosquitoes are most active: during dusk or dawn. Use insect repellent containing DEET on exposed skin whenever or wherever mosquitoes are likely to bite.
To eliminate an mosquitoes colony we suggest: PROPANE INSECT FOGGER Dr T's Mosqutos Repellent Riptide 5.0 % Pyrethrin ULV Mosquito Dunks
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Blacklegged (Deer) Ticks
Color: Dark brown to black body Legs: Eight Shape: Flat; broad oval Size: 1/8 " Antennae: No Flight: No
The blacklegged tick is named for its dark legs, which are a contrast to its pale body. Blacklegged ticks are sometimes called deer ticks.
Habits
These ticks like to feed on the blood of white-tailed deer, which is why they are sometimes called deer ticks.
Habitat
Blacklegged ticks prefer to hide in grass and shrubs.
Threats
Blacklegged (deer) ticks can spread Lyme Disease.
Prevention
When in an area where ticks are common, wear long sleeved shirts and pants, preferably light colored so ticks will be easy to detect. Tuck pants into socks. Use a tick repellent. When you return indoors, inspect clothing and skin thoroughly for ticks, including head. Wash clothes immediately.
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Scorpion
Color: Can vary widely between yellow, blue, reddish brown, and black Legs: Eight Shape: powerful claw-like pincers and ¡®tail¡¯, bearing a poisonous sting Size: most measure about 2 inches fully grown Antennae: No Flight: No
While they will sting if someone accidentally contacts them, their sting is seldom more painful than that of a wasp or honeybee.
Damage
Scorpions are of concern because of the painful sting they can inflict when threatened. Any scorpion sting can be serious to anyone that is allergic to insect stings. A physician should attend to all stings.
Appearance
Size: Scorpion sizes vary between species but most measure about 2" fully grown. Color: Their colors vary between yellow, reddish brown, and black
Habitat
They crawl into buildings through exterior cracks in search of food or suitable shelter. Scorpions are night feeders, and are attracted to water, swimming pools, and irrigation areas. Scorpions live both outside in wood piles, palm trees, decorative bark, and inside homes or places that are dark and cool.
Control Tips
To reduce scorpions around a home, eliminate as many piles of items or debris on the ground and keep dense vegetation to a minimum.
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Varied Carpet Beetles
Color: Black centers, with white, brown and yellow patches in an irregular arrangement Legs: Six Shape: Round Size: 1/16 Antennae: Yes Flight: No Varied carpet beetles get their name from the rainbow of color on their back surfaces.
Habits
These pests enjoy dining on carpets, woolen fabrics, dead insects, furs, hides, feathers, horns, hair, silk and bones. It can take 249-354 days to three years for varied carpet beetles to grow from an egg to an adult.
Habitat
Varied carpet beetles are found in homes in attics, Oriental carpets, tapestries and wood-based wall-to-wall carpeting.
Threats
Varied carpet beetles feed on dead insects, but also feed on upholstery and carpet, so they can damage those materials. They can also damage clothing fabric.
Prevention
As with moths, to avoid varied carpet beetle infestations, store clothing in plastic containers. Dry clean clothing thoroughly before storing for long periods of time.
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Powderpost Beetles
Color: Reddish brown to black Legs: Six Shape: Narrow oval Size: 1/8 to 1/4" Antennae: Yes Flight: Yes
Powderpost beetles lay their eggs in cracks of wood and the larvae tunnel into the surface, filling it with a very fine powder-like dust. Powderpost beetles have long, narrow, flat bodies that allow them to easily attack wood surfaces. These beetles are reddish-brown in color.
Habits
Adult powderpost beetles are very active at night, enjoy flying and are attracted to the light.
Habitat
Powderpost beetles often attack hardwoods, and can be found in hardwood floors, timbers and crates, antiques and other objects made of hardwood materials.
Threats
Some researchers believe that powderpost beetles are second only to termites in the United States in their destructiveness to wood and wood products.
Prevention
Powderpost beetles can be prevented through vigilant inspection of wood sources in the home.
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Merchant Grain Beetles
Color: Brown Legs: Six Shape: Narrow oval Size: 1/10 Antennae: Yes Flight: No
Merchant grain beetles are typically not found in grain products, but instead like to attack cereals, cake mixes, macaroni, cookies and chocolate. Merchant grain beetles are dark brown and have six saw-like teeth on each side of their bodies. They can grow to be one-eighth of an inch long and have very flat bodies.
Habits
The merchant grain beetle's body shape allows it to crawl into packaging to eat, live and have babies.
Habitat
Merchant grain beetles are found in pantries or in food processing areas or warehouses.
Threats
Merchant grain beetles can infest stored food products and can contaminate food.
Prevention
Discard infested packages. Clean spilled grain and food sources.
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Earwigs
Color: Dark brown Legs: Six Shape: Long, narrow Size: 1 Antennae: Yes Flight: No
Earwigs got their name from the myth that they crawl into sleeping people's ears and tunnel into their brains. The long cerci, or clippers, on their backsides easily identify an earwig.
Habits
Earwigs hide during the day and feeds on leaves, flowers, fruits, mold and insects at night.
Habitat
These insects live together outdoors in large numbers. They can be found under piles of lawn debris, mulch or in tree holes. They gain entry to a structure through exterior cracks
Threats
Contrary to folklore, earwigs do not crawl into ears and eat peoples' brains at night. They do not spread diseases, but their menacing appearance can be alarming to a homeowner.
Prevention
Remove harborage sites such as leaf piles, mulch piles or other vegetation. Seal cracks and crevices well to prevent structural entry.
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Idian Meal Moths
Color: Copper reddish coloring on outer part of wings Legs: Six Shape: Elongated oval Size: 5/8" Antennae: Yes Flight: Yes
The indianmeal moth was given its name after an insect scientist found it feeding on corn meal, also known as Indian meal. From wing tip to wing tip, adult moths measure from five-eighths of an inch to three-fourths of an inch long.
Habits
These moths like to feed on dried fruits, grains, seeds, nuts, chocolate, candies, bird seed, dog food, powdered milk, dried red peppers and candy.
Habitat
Attracted to the light, these bugs are found worldwide in areas where food is stored, such as grocery stores.
Threats
Indian Meal Moths infest foods and can contaminate food products.
Prevention
Dried food products should be inspected thoroughly for signs of moth infestations. Discard infested foods in outdoor trash bins. Clean infested cupboards thoroughly with a vacuum and soap and water. Store food in sealed containers
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Pillbugs
Color: Dark brown to black Legs: Seven pair Shape: Oval; round when rolled up Size: 3/4" Antennae: Yes Flight: No
This pest is the only crustacean that has become completely adapted to spending its life on land. Pillbugs have oval bodies and seven pairs of legs. They are easily recognized by their back, which is made up of seven hard individual plates. Pillbugs are sometimes referred to as rollie-pollies.
Habits
Pillbugs eat decaying vegetable material and are most active at night. They are known for their ability to roll into a ball.
Habitat
Pillbugs live in moist locations. They are found under damp objects or under vegetable debris.
Threats
Pillbugs do not spread diseases or invade food products. However, the pillbug is often considered a pest when it gains entry into a home.
Prevention
Pillbugs can be avoided by eliminating food sources such as vegetable or plant debris. If pillbugs enter a structure, they will often dry out and die.
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Centipede
Damage
Centipedes have pair of poison claws behind the head and use the poison to paralyze their prey but they are not usually harmful to humans. Some species can inflict a painful bite.
Appearance
Most centipedes found around buildings rarely measure longer than 2 inches. Color:Most are brownish or orange-brown.
Habitat
This centipede can be found outside under stones, boards, or sticks or beneath moist leaf litter and other organic matter.
Control Tips
Eliminate dark, damp nesting areas inside the home. Anteaters Pest Control Program will protect your home and family from Centipede.
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Cricket
Damage
All kinds of crickets may be considered a nuisance because of their "chirping," none of them bites or carries diseases.
Appearance
Size: There are several species of field crickets ranging in size from 1/4 to 3/4 inch Color: Body is yellowish-brown.
Habitat
Active at night. Attracted to lights
Control Tips
Seal cracks, gaps and holes in foundation, siding, windows, doors, screens, and other possible entry points. Remove vegetation and debris from next to the house that serves as a hiding place or breeding site.
Anteaters Pest Control Program will protect your home and family from Cricket.
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Clover Mite
Damage
Clover mites are merely nuisance pests and don't cause noticeable damage to grass, or breed indoors. When mashed, the dead mite leaves a red mark that resembles blood.
Appearance
Size: Clover mites are tiny, the adults being smaller than the head of a pin Color: darker reddish brown
Habitat
This mite has a habit (in their natural surroundings) of migrating to trees where they hide in the tree's bark. If close to a home, the arachnid considers the building the same as it would a tree - a wonderful place to hide from extreme temperatures. Entering through tiny openings around windows and doors, the clover mite invades the wall voids of the structure and then enter the house itself.
Control Tips
Removing all vegetation next to the home will eliminate clover mites
Anteaters Pest Control Program will protect your home and family from Clover Mite.
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Grasshopper
Damage
Grasshoppers are one of the most destructive insect pest of crops and rangeland. They are voracious feeders, consuming approximately one-half of their body weight per day.
Appearance
Size: 1-2" long Color: brown to reddish yellow or green
Habitat
They roost in trees and shrubs, as well as turf areas.
Control Tips
Homeowners can protect valuable plants, to some extent, through the use of residual insecticides. Geotextile fabrics can be used as barriers to protect valuable vegetables and specimen ornamental plants. Also, landscape plants that are less attractive to grasshoppers can be used.
Anteaters Pest Control Program will protect your home and family from Grasshopper.
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Millipede
Damage
Millipedes are not poisonous, but many species have repugnatorial glands capable of producing mild acids which may produce allergenic reactions in sensitive individuals .
Appearance
Size: 5/8 to 4-inches in length. Color: brown or black, but some species are orange or red.
Habitat
Millipedes normally are found outdoors where they feed on damp and decaying wood, organic material, and will also feed on tender roots and green leaves that have fallen to the ground.
Control Tips
Homeowners can eliminate damp, dark hiding places by reducing mulch use around the home and moving wood piles.
Anteaters Pest Control Program will protect your home and family from Milipede
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Silverfish
Damage
Silverfish can damage book bindings, wallpaper, paper goods and dry foods. They may eat holes, irregular shaped in the wallpaper to get to the paste. Silverfish may bite very small holes in various fabrics, including cotton, linen, and silk, even though they cannot digest either linen or cotton
Appearance
Size: 1/2 inch long, Color: uniform silvery color over the upper surface
Habitat
Silverfish are found in basements, kitchens, sinks, bathtubs, in bookcases, on closet shelves, behind baseboards, wallpaper, window or door frames, wall voids, and sub-floor areas.
Control Tips
Sources of any undue moisture, such as faulty plumbing or condensation that provide the humidity favored by these pests should be eliminated. Dehumidifying reduces the moisture content of the air that these insects find essential. Some methods for dehumidifying include: Mend leaking pipes. Ventilate closed rooms and attics. Eliminate standing water. Use a dehumidifier an air conditioner.
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Termites
Drawing- a courtesy of University of Nebraska-Lincoln Institute of Agriculture and Natural Resources
ANTS OR TERMITES ?
Do I have ants or termites? This can be a very troublesome question. Some of the flying winged ants can resemble the winged-swarming termite. Here are some ways do identify the difference between the physical resemblance.
While both species have four wings, the termite wings are all the same size and the ant wings have noticeably larger wings in the front as compared to the hind pair.
Termites have an almost straight antennae, the ants antennae are elbowed.
Termite wings are twice as long as the body.
Ants appear distinctly segmented, because of their thin-waisted appearance. Termites have a broad-waisted appearance.
Carpenter ant: Carpenter ants are black or brown and measure up to 1" in length. They are often confused with termites. Unlike termites they have pinched waists and elbowed antennae. Termites have straight bodies and antennae. As with termites, there is a winged version too. Carpenter ants can do significant structural damage, but are more a nuisance than a structural problem.
Investigation:There are several ways to recognize a carpenter ant infestation:
1.Swarmers: Winged form of the carpenter ant in a great number 2.Sawdust: If you see sawdust(frass) raining from your ceiling or from any indoor cracks. 3.If you see more than 10 ants a day in any room other than the kitchen. 4.If you see ants in your home and the ground outside is frozen. 5.Crunching Noise( If you hear munching, rustling or crunching noise coming from within a window sill, wall or ceiling).
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Termite Damage
Damage: Replace two wall studs, small section of bottom plate and plywood subfloor in a hall bath. Cost: Approx. $2907.02
Damage: Replace two kitchen wall studs adjacent to window unit and to the rear of the cabinet. Cost: Approx. $2387.56* *Repair costs were estimated using an independent property adjusting firm (9/96)
Depending on the construction of your home, it's geographical location, moisture, heat and soil conditions, termite chemicals used today typically break down in three to five years.
Central heating systems in today's homes make it possible for termites to live in the adjacent soil all year long.
A typical house can have multiple colonies situated under or around it. Because there can be as many as 2,000,000 subterranean termites per colony, the threat of infestation is always great. Protection usually costs far less than repairs.
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Dampwood Termite
Family: Kalotermitidae C. formosanus Family Hodotermitidae Color: brownish Legs: 6 Shape: Long, narrow, oval Size: 1/2" to 5/8" Antennae: yes Flight: yes
Need to know how to kill termites? Pestmall currently offers termite insecticide for your home or business.
These insects are usually larger in size than other termite species. The bodies of the king and queen range in size from ¨ö to 5/8 of an inch and have 2 pairs of wings. They produce distinctive fecal pellets that are elongated and rounded at both ends.
Habitat
They nest in wood buried in the ground or where wood is high in moisture, such as in fallen trees or tree stumps. They are not normally found in structures unless the wood has high moisture. These pests are social and can form large colonies rapidly.
Health Risks
Termites do not sting or bite and are not known to carry or transmit diseases. Let us assist you on how to kill termites in your residence.
Property Damage They cause damage by boring holes and tunnels throughout wood. Most species of termites have microscopic, one-celled animals called protozoa. Their intestines help converting wood into food for the colony.
Prevention
Destroy shelter tubes to interrupt access to wooden substructures and to open colonies to attack from natural enemies such as ants. Ventilate crawl spaces and install a moisture barrier. Remove infested wood and tree stumps and do not store fire wood or lumber on the ground next to your home. Water from downspouts and gutters should divert water away from the structure.
To rid your home of Dampwood Termites, we suggest:
Timbor Professional See All Our Termite Products
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Drywood Termites
Color: light brown Legs: 6 Shape: long, narrow, oval Size: 3/8" to 1¡± Antennae: yes Flight: yes
Getting rid of termites in your home or business can be difficult. However, Pestmall provides you the tools the professionals use in termite extermination. Order now and save!
Drywood termites form colonies of up to 2,500 members. The termite colonies do not have a worker caste. Instead, the work is done by immature termites before they reach adulthood. Their fecal pellets are elongate with rounded ends and have six flattened or roundly depressed surfaces separated by six longitudinal ridges
They have a low moisture requirement and can tolerate dry conditions for long periods. They remain above ground and do not connect their nests to the soil. These insects infest dry wood, including lumber, dead limbs, utility poles, fence posts, and lumber in storage. They seasonally migrate to nearby buildings and other structures on warm days.
Health Risks :Termites do not sting or bite and are not known to carry or transmit diseases.
Property Damage
They cause damage by boring holes and tunnels throughout wood. Most species of termites have microscopic, one-celled animals called protozoa within their intestines that help to convert wood into food for the colony.
Prevention
Ventilate crawl spaces and install a moisture barrier. Remove infested wood and tree stumps and do not store fire wood or lumber on the ground next to your home. Use pressure-treated and chemically resistant wood to build a structure.
To rid your home of Drywood Termites, We suggest:
Bora Care CB D-Foam See All Our Termite Products
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Formosan Termites
Color: yellowish brown Legs: 6 Shape: Long, narrow, oval Size: ¨ö¡± Antennae: yes Flight: yes
Habitat
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The Formosan termite is a subterranean species that is about ¨ö inch in length, including its wings. Originally from China, these termites are among the most aggressive in attacking wood.
Habitat
They build earthen-shelter tubes to protect themselves from low humidity and predators. The tubes are usually ¨ù to 1 inch wide and can be found in crawl spaces and inside and outside slab foundations. Cracks in concrete foundations and open voids in concrete block foundations are hidden avenues of entry for Formosan termites.
Health Risks: Termites do not sting or bite and are not known to carry or transmit diseases.
Property Damage
Termites cause damage by boring holes and tunnels throughout wood. Most species of termites have microscopic, one-celled animals called protozoa within their intestines that help to convert wood into food for the colony. Often, wood must be removed to see the damage; however, galleries can be detected by tapping the wood every few inches with a screwdriver handle. Damaged wood sounds hollow, and the screwdriver may break through the wood if termites are present.
Prevention
Destroy shelter tubes to interrupt access to wooden substructures and to open colonies to attack from natural enemies such as ants. Ventilate crawl spaces and install a moisture barrier. Remove infested wood and tree stumps and do not store fire wood or lumber on the ground next to your home. Water from downspouts and gutters should divert water away from the structure. To rid your home of Formosan Termites,
To rid your home of Formosan Termites We suggest:
Bora Care Termidor SC CB D-Foam See All Our Termite Products
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Subterranean Termites Family:Rhinotermitidae
Color: creamy brown Legs: 6 Shape: long, narrow, oval Size: 1/8¡± Antennae: yes Flight: yes
These termites develop underground in moist areas. They build mud tubes to gain access to wood and to protect themselves from predators. They must have contact with the soil to live underground and to survive.
Habitat: These insects disperse throughout the soil building underground tunnels hundreds of feet to reach feeding sites.
The workers, soldiers, and reproductives are the three forms found in a termite colony. A colony can contain hundreds of thousands of individual termites. However, the forms are distinct from one another by appearance and their function within the colony. The workers forge for food and water. Also, they construct shelter tubes, care for the eggs and young. The Soldier's primary function is to defend the colony and the reproductives produce new offspring.
For an effective termite killer, let Pestmall provide you the supplies the professionals use.
Typical homeowner's insurance doesn't cover the threat of termites. Ironically, most homes are protected against the threat of fire and storms, but not the damage caused by termites. A termite colony works 24 hours a day. "Worker" termites forage for food to bring to the colony through mud tunnels. Termites can travel up to 130 feet from their colony in search of food, leaving a "trail" for others to follow. Termites only need a crack 1/64" in the slab floor to gain entrance into your home. Today's termite materials break down over time. Placement of treatment is now a crucial factor in complete protection. Termites eat wood from the inside out, causing the wood appear normal until it is almost completely destroyed.
Health Risks : Subterranean termites are not known to impose any health risk.
Property Damage: These insects can be detected when termites swarm. mud tubes and wood damage. Seeing swarming termites typically means that a large colony is present and the adult reproductives are looking to pair, forming a new colony. These termites construct mud tubes to protect themselves from drying and from enemies, such as ants. They do not create wood particles or powder. To detect an active infestation, mud tubes should be scraped away and then monitored to determine if the tubes are repaired or rebuilt.
Prevention :To prevent infestation, eliminate moisture and food sources such as wood and paper. Destroy mud tubes to interrupt access to wooden substructures.
To rid your home of Subterranean Termites, we suggest:
Bora Care Termidor SC CB D-Foam Baiting System See All Our Termite Products
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Mole
Moles are members of the family (Talpidae) of mammals in the order Insectivora that live underground, burrowing holes. Some species are aquatic or semi-aquatic. They have cylindrical bodies covered in fur with small or covered eyes; the ears are generally not visible. They feed on small invertebrate animals living under ground. Moles can be found in North America, Europe and Asia.There are about 30 species of moles worldwide, with North America being home to seven. These moles are widespread in the United States and parts of South-western and Eastern Canada. Often confused with those of gophers and ground-squirrels (rodents), the mounds and meandering tunnel ridges made by these animals in their constant search for food are familiar sites to many North Americans. However, few people have more than vague ideas concerning the nature of the creatures that inhabit them. Relatively speaking, little is known scientifically of these fossorial mammals. In fact, they are among the least understood components of the North American fauna.
Most moles, as commonly recognized and known to the general public, are solitary animals that spend most of their life underground. Notable exceptions are the desmans which are aquatic, the star-nosed mole which is semi-aquatic, and the diminutive shrew-moles that are active foragers both underground and on the surface. Regardless of habit, all species construct two basic types of tunnel: deep, more permanent tunnels, and shallow surface runways. Differences in the extent and nature of these tunnels occur between most species. However, all mole species prefer moist soils where burrowing is easy.
The population demography and home range sizes of moles is poorly known. However, data suggest that the home ranges of moles may be substantially larger than those of other fossorial mammals.
The food habits of moles have received more attention than many aspects of their biology. The diet is highly variable among species, but in general earthworms, insects, and other invertebrates compose the majority of the diet. However, vegetation is known to comprise a small portion of the diet in most species. Presumably due to the enormous costs of excavating their numerous tunnel galleries, most moles are reported to have a voracious appetite. In fact, one star-nosed mole was noted to consume 1850 earthworms, three mice, one frog and two large grubs in 14 days!
Star Nosed Mole
Most extensive distribution of any North American mole, and occurs substantially farther north than other species. Broadly distributed from the Atlantic region, including Cape Breton Island, in the east to eastern Manitoba in the west (an isolated population may occur in Riding Mountain National Park, Manitoba). In the United States this mole is found all along the Atlantic coast to extreme northern Florida, and among the Appalachian Mountains to eastern Tennessee and western South Carolina.
Hairy-tailed mole
In Canada, this mole ranges from the Agawa Bay region of eastern Lake Superior, Ontario, across southern Quebec, and possibly into New Brunswick. In the United States, the hairy-tailed mole can be found south into Conneticut, and along the Appalachian Mountains into northeastern Tennessee and western North Carolina. From here, the species occurs north through central Ohio to the southwestern tip of Lake Ontario.
Eastern mole
Largest range of any North American mole, occuring throughout much of the United States where soils are favorable. Ranges from northern Mexico to southeastern South Dakota in the west. East into Minnesota, Wisconsin, and south of the Great Lakes in Michigan, and into extreme southwestern Ontario. Found south through Ohio into Kentucky, then northeastern into Massachusetts and much of southern New England, and then south the the southernmost tip of Florida.
American shrew-mole
Restricted to western regions of North America from Santa Cruz County, California, and north through western Oregon and Washington. An isolated population occurs on Destruction Island, Washington. In Canada, shrew-moles are restricted to southwestern British Columbia, and were recently reported to occur as far north as the Squamish region.
Coast mole
The coast mole occurs from the Fraser Delta region of southwestern British Columbia, south through the western portions of Washington and Oregon to coastal regions of northwestern California. It is also known to occur in parts of eastern Washington and Oregon and in one area of extreme west-central Idaho.
Townsend's mole
More restricted in distribution than the coast mole, Townsend's mole is typically a lowland species that occurs from extreme northwestern California in the south, and upwards along the coastal regions of Oregon and Washington. The extreme northern range of the species barely places it into the southernmost reaches of southwestern British Columbia, where it is protected.
Broad-footed mole
The southernmost distributed of the western North American moles, the broad-footed mole occurs from southern Oregon, south along the Pacific coastal regions to the San Pedro Martir Mountains in Baja California. Its range also extends throughout much of northern California east into western Nevada, then south in California east of the Central Valley.
Victor mole trap
Talpirid mole bait
Dr T's Whole Control repellent
Giant destroyer ( gas bomb )
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Squirrel
Squirrel is the common name for rodents of the family Sciuridae (from Greek skia "shadow" and oura "tail"; "tail that casts a shadow"). In everyday speech in the English-speaking world, it usually refers to members of the genera Sciurus and Tamiasciurus. These typical members of the family are tree squirrels with large bushy tails, and are indigenous to Europe, Asia and the Americas. Similar genera are found in Africa. However, the Sciuridae also include flying squirrels, and ground squirrels such as the chipmunks, prairie dogs, and woodchucks. The unrelated family Anomaluridae also have "squirrel" in their common name, though they are usually referred to as "scaly-tailed flying squirrels". One well-known trait of some species of squirrel is the gathering and storing of nuts for the winter. These squirrels are scatter-hoarders; they will gather juicy nuts and store them in any accessible hiding place, usually by burying them. Recent research shows that they have rather limited memories, and use spatial clues to remember the locations of these caches (e.g., one squirrel may prefer to store nuts on the north side of trees) [citation needed]. Another characteristic trait of several types of squirrels, especially ground squirrels, is their tendency to rise on their hind legs and curl their paws flat against their chests when they sense any kind of danger. They will then survey their surrounding territories. If they feel that they are in peril, they will often send the warning call, a loud screeching sound, to alert other squirrels.
Unlike rabbits or deer, squirrels cannot digest cellulose, and must rely on foods rich in protein, carbohydrates, and fat. Early spring is the hardest time of year for squirrels, as buried nuts begin to sprout and are no longer available, but new food sources have not become available yet. During these times squirrels rely heavily on the buds of trees, in particular, those of the Silver Maple. Despite popular impression, squirrels are actually omnivores; as well as eating a wide variety of plant food, including nuts, seeds, fruits, fungi (for example, mushrooms), and green vegetation, they also eat insects, eggs, and even small birds, smaller mammals, frogs, and carrion. It is also a common occurrence that these foods replace nuts in some of the tropics.
Squirrels are generally clever and persistent animals; in residential neighborhoods they are notorious for eating out of bird feeders, digging in potted plants either to bury or recover seeds, and for setting up house in sheltered areas including attics. While many companies sell bird feeders which are supposedly ¡°squirrel-proof¡±, very few—if any—of them really are.
A fox squirrel eating a nutSquirrels are sometimes also pests because they chew on various edible and inedible objects; the habit helps keep the squirrel's teeth sharp and also wears them down (rodents' teeth grow continuously). Homeowners in areas with a heavy squirrel population must keep attics and basements carefully sealed to prevent property damage caused by nesting squirrels. Some homeowners resort to more humane ways of dealing with this, such as collecting and planting fur from pets (such as domestic cats and dogs) in attics. This fur will indicate to nesting squirrels that a potential predator roams and will encourage evacuation. Fake owls and scarecrows are generally ignored by the animals, and the best way to prevent chewing on an object is to coat it with something to make it undesirable: for instance a soft cloth or chili pepper paste or powder. Squirrel trapping is also practiced to remove them from residential areas.
Squirrels can be trained to be hand-fed. Because they are able to cache surplus food, they will take as much food as you put out. If a person starts to feed one, that squirrel will come back day after day to get its food. Squirrels living in parks and campuses in cities have learned long ago that humans are typically a ready source of food. Hand feeding is not recommended, however, because squirrels may carry plague or other animal-borne diseases. Even if they do not carry disease, they often have a hard time telling fingertips from food, and bites are painful.
Squirrels are often the cause of electricity outages. The animals will enter transformers or capacitors looking for food. The squirrels are then electrocuted and cause a power surge that shorts equipment. Squirrels have brought down the high-tech NASDAQ stock market twice, and were responsible for a spate of power outages at the University of Alabama [1]. They will often chew on tree branches to sharpen their teeth, but cannot tell the difference between a tree branch and a live power line. Rubber plates are sometimes used to prevent access to these facilities.
Urban squirrels have learned to get a great deal of food from generous humans. One of the more common, and inexpensive foods fed to squirrels is peanuts. Recent studies however have shown that raw peanuts contain a trypsin inhibitor that prevents the absorption of protein in the intestine. Dr. James K. Kieswetter of Eastern Washington University suggests using roasted peanuts instead.[2] However, wildlife rehabilitators in the field have noted that neither raw and roasted peanuts or sunflower seeds are good for squirrels, as they are deficient in a number of nutrients needed. This type of deficiency has been found to cause Metabolic Bone Disease, a somewhat common ailement found in malnourished squirrels.[3] [4]
Proper sanitation and property maintenance will prevent most problems. Most urban squirrels owe their existence to humans. We supply both food, and shelter without thinking. A house is just another funny looking tree to the squirrel. Why should the squirrel spend days cutting and hauling twigs up a tree to build a nest, when there is a perfectly good attic to sleep in. Its warm, out of the weather, and they don't have to worry about predators coming in. Just add a few leaves, a bit of fluff, and call it home.
Now what's for dinner? A dish of pet food left unattended, an open garbage can, or a full bird feeder is a free meal to a hungry squirrel. Their common sense says "this sure beats foraging" and it's a lot easier. Wow...these humans are really great! If you read this far, then you probably have some of these problems already. So, remove the food supply. If it is a bird feeder, move it twenty or more feet from the house. Close or cover garbage cans, and if possible make them inaccessible. If you have a barbecue near the house, keep it clean and covered. Squirrels have been know to eat the drippings and sometimes build a nest if they can get inside. It doesn't take very long, sometimes just hours.
Maybe the squirrels are digging in your garden, or flower pots. While you can't stop a squirrel from digging, you can discourage it. Use hardware cloth, a heavy metal screening with a half inch square grid, to place in the flower pot. Cut it to fit around the stem of the plant, and extend it to the edges of the pot. Place it just below the soil. Put some small rocks near the edge to hold it in place. This same approach can be used in a small garden.
If the squirrels are eating your fruit as it ripens, about the only way to stop them is to cage the entire plant. Most times this is not practical, and allowing them to have a little may be a small price to pay. I know they can be wasteful, try to accept it as food tasting.
Other devices, such as high frequency sound emitters and animal scents may be effective for a short period of time. Once the squirrel gets use to them, and they will. They become ineffective, and you're out a lot of money.
The use of "Squirrel Away" or "Hot Pepper Spray" are also ineffective as deterrents. They can actually do harm to both squirrels, and other animals, especially when these products get into their eyes. Then how do you deal with a blind squirrel?
The use of "moth balls" as a deterrent does work. But again, only temporarily. A determined squirrel will get used to the smell, or simply push the "smelly stuff" out of its way. So if you do try this method, wrap them in a piece of metal screening to form a bag. Then tie the bag to a solid object, make it as difficult as possible for the squirrel to move. You will have to replace the contents every few days for it to be truly effective.
Another problem area can be exposed wires or rubber hose's. Most common are those on gas grills, and stored motor vehicles. But, low voltage lighting can be a tempting target for squirrels. What the most squirrels are trying to do, is clean and sharpen their teeth. They do this by biting through some material, (normally wood) then they pull their head back so the fibers slide between the teeth. I guess you could call it the squirrel version of dental floss. Most squirrels stick with small tree branches, but some have found the plastic coated wire or rubber hose does a much better job. The only way to stop this problem is to trap and relocate the offending squirrel. Once the squirrel is removed, the problem should end.
Once a squirrel has chewed its way into an attic or crawl space, again the only practical way to remove it is by trapping (see section below). Of course repairs should be made immediately to close the entrance hole. It is also important to cut off the access route to the attic or crawl space. This may require trimming tree branches that overhang the roof. Remove firewood that may be stacked against the building. Fill cracks in foundation walls. Even a one inch hole or crack can make a suitable entrance hole for a determined squirrel. When patching wood, use metal plates or flashing where ever possible. On foundations walls use concrete. Avoid plastic or PVC vents when ever possible.
If your only alternative is to trap, and remove an unwanted squirrel, you should first check with your local government agency. Your City, County, or State may require you to obtain a permit. There may be certain circumstances when a professional trapper is needed to capture and relocate the animal. A phone call can save you a lot of trouble.
The other very important part of trapping concerns the time of year. The female squirrel will give birth to a litter of three or four, in the early spring and possibly again in the fall. If you trap and relocate the mother squirrel, you will surely kill her babies since they can not leave the nest on their own. While this alone would be heart breaking, consider what will become of those baby squirrels. They can cause quite a smell. Please give this some careful thought before you proceed. If you're not sure, please ask for help. That's what we're here for.
If you are allowed to trap, your next step will be to find a suitable trap. Most large sporting goods stores will have a selection of live animal traps to choose from. Live traps sell for about $30, for a small "five by five by eighteen inch Havahart Trap" and can go up to $90 for larger sizes. Tomahawk Live trap also carries a complete line of traps and supplies.
You can also rent traps from some Rental Service Stores. One store in Minnesota rents the small Havahart 1025 trap for $15 per day.
Be sure to find one that is the proper size for the squirrel you wish to trap. Too small of a trap may not completely enclose the squirrel and one too large may not be sensitive enough for a one pound squirrel.
Traps should come with instructions to bait and set them, be sure you under- stand and follow the directions. Peanut butter (Skippy crunchy) is considered the best bait for a squirrel. Placing a spoonful on the trip lever usually does the trick.
Your first step is to do a little detective work. Find the path that the squirrel is using to your attic, crawl space or where ever it should not be. To find this path, you must first observe your squirrel's routine. Normally, a squirrel will leave the nest at dawn or shortly after in search of food. This would be the best time to watch and wait. Find a place where you can view your house and the entrance hole. Be very still, and watch how it gets to or from the house. E.g. climbing, jumping or both. Once you discover this path, you should place the trap accordingly. Always set the trap on a stable surface, such as the ground, on a porch or deck. Never hang the trap!
If you have the time, leave the trap opened and without bait for several days, so the squirrel will accept it as part of the landscape. You should also consider what if any other animals might be in the area of the trap. Since a cat, dog, or even a bird may be tempted into your trap.
You must be able to see or hear the trap operate, so it would be best to set it only when you have the time to watch or listen for it to operate. Once a squirrel is trapped it must be removed as quickly as possible to prevent stress to the animal. Be sure you are wearing heavy work gloves while handling the trap. Be prepared to listen to a lot of complaining. This squirrel is going to voice its displeasure non-stop!
You must relocate the squirrel at least a three miles from your location, even further if you are in a heavily wooded area. An ideal location would have a natural barrier, such as a river or lake. If you're moving the squirrel within an urban area, try to place it across several highways or other busy streets. You should give some thought to where you are going to relocate the squirrel before capture. A place where it can find food, water and shelter would be in your best interest. Don't give this squirrel a reason to return!
It may be necessary to repeat this process if more than one squirrel is involved. Please remember that if there are babies in the nest, they can "not" be trapped and must be removed by hand.
Then be sure to correct the problem that led to the squirrel moving in, as quickly as possible. Be sure to wash the entrance area, with a strong solution of ammonia and water, or a household cleaner to remove any scent the squirrel's may have left.
If you have problems, concerns, or questions about live trapping. Many local government agencies have people that are knowledgeable in this area and may be able to offer you additional advice.
If you do not have the time or are not sure you can accomplish this task. There are professional animal or pest control companies that can remove squirrels for you. If you consider the time and effort involved, it may be best to contact a local company for an estimate. Generally, you can expect to pay between one and two hundred dollars for this service.
Rid a criddle repellent
Haveahart live trap
Rat & Squirrel Lure - Walnut
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Snakes
Poisonous snakes
Copperheads
Rattlesnakes
Cottonmouths
Coral Snakes
Of the many kinds of snakes found in the United States, only the following are harmful: rattlesnakes, copperheads, cottonmouths, coral snakes, and sea snakes. The latter group lives only in the oceans. All poisonous snakes, except coral snakes and sea snakes, belong in a group called pit vipers. There are three ways to distinguish between pit vipers and nonpoisonous snakes in the United States:
(1) All pit vipers have a deep pit on each side of the head, midway between the eye and the nostril. Nonpoisonous snakes do not have these pits.
(2) On the underside of the tail of pit vipers, scales go all the way across in one row (except on the very tip of the tail, which may have two rows in some cases). On the underside of the tail of all nonpoisonous snakes, scales are in two rows all the way from the vent of the snake to the tip of the tail. The shed skin of a snake shows the same characteristics.
(3) The pupil of pit vipers is vertically elliptical (egg-shaped). In very bright light, the pupil may be almost a vertical line, due to extreme contraction to shut out light. The pupil of nonpoisonous snakes is perfectly round.
The poisonous coral snake is ringed with red, yellow, and black, with red and yellow rings touching.
Nonpoisonous mimics of the coral snake (such as the scarlet king snake) have red and yellow rings, separated by black rings. A helpful saying to memorize is: ¡°Red on yellow, kill a fellow; red on black, friend of Jack.¡±
Some species of nonpoisonous snakes occur throughout several states, but the majority have only limited ranges.
Snakes are not very mobile, and even though some are fairly adaptable, most have specific habitat requirements. Some live underground (these are mostly small in size), and some have eyes shielded by scales of the head. Others, such as green snakes, live primarily in trees. One group spends its entire life in the oceans. In general, snakes like cool, damp, dark areas where they can find food. The following are areas around the home that seem to be attractive to snakes: firewood stacked directly on the ground; old lumber piles; junk piles; flower beds with heavy mulch; gardens; unkempt basements; shrubbery growing against foundations; barn lofts— especially where stored feed attracts rodents; attics in houses where there is a rodent or bat problem; stream banks; pond banks where there are boards, innertubes, tires, planks, and other items lying on the bank; unmowed lawns; and abandoned lots and fields.
All snakes are predators, and the different species eat many different kinds of food. Rat snakes eat primarily rodents (such as rats, mice, and chipmunks), bird eggs, and baby birds. King snakes eat other snakes, as well as rodents, young birds, and bird eggs. Some snakes, such as green snakes, eat primarily insects. Some small snakes, such as earth snakes and worm snakes, eat earthworms, slugs, and salamanders. Water snakes eat primarily frogs, fish, and tadpoles.
Snakes are specialized animals, having elongated bodies and no legs. They have no ears, externally or internally, and no eyelids, except for a protective window beneath which the eye moves. The organs of the body are elongated. Snakes have a long, forked tongue, which helps them smell. Gaseous particles from odors are picked up by the tongue and inserted into the two-holed organ, called the Jacobson¡¯s Organ, at the roof of the mouth.
The two halves of the lower jaw are not fused, but are connected by a ligament to each other. They are also loosely connected so the snake can swallow food much larger than its head. Because snakes are cold-blooded and not very active, one meal may last them several weeks. Also, because they are cold-blooded, they may hibernate during cold weather months or aestivate during hot summer months when the climate is severe. In either case, they consume little or no food during these times. Some snakes lay eggs, some hatch their eggs inside the body, and some give live birth. The young of copperheads, rattlesnakes, and cottonmouths are born alive.
Nonpoisonous snakes are harmless to humans. In most cases, a snake will crawl away when approached if it feels it can reach cover safely. No snakes charge or attack people, with the exception of the racers, which occasionally bluff by advancing toward an intruder. Racers will retreat rapidly, however, if challenged. Snakes react only when cornered. Different species react in different ways, playing dead by turning over on the back, hissing, opening the mouth in a menacing manner, coiling, and striking and biting if necessary.
Nonpoisonous snakes have two rows of scales between the vent and the tip of the tail, while poisonous snakes have only one row.
A nonpoisonous snake bite has no venom and can do no more harm than frighten the victim. After being bitten several thousand times by nonpoisonous snakes, the author and his students have never suffered any adverse reaction, and no treatment was ever used. The only harm nonpoisonous snakes can cause is frightening people who are not familiar with them. A bite from a poisonous snake, however, causes an almost immediate reaction—swelling, tissue turning a dark blue-black, a tingling sensation, and nausea. If none of these is observed or felt, the bite was from a nonpoisonous snake. Also, bites from one of the pit vipers (copperheads, rattlesnakes, and cottonmouths) will reveal two fang marks, in addition to teeth marks. All snakes have teeth; only pit vipers have fangs. North American pit vipers have only two rows of teeth on top and two on the bottom, whereas nonpoisonous snakes have four on top and four on the bottom.
As mentioned earlier, nonpoisonous snakes are completely harmless and cause no damage, except occasionally frightening people. Therefore, no expense toward control of nonpoisonous snakes is justified. Most methods to remove snakes are inexpensive, except for the snake-proof fence, which can be quite expensive.
In most states, snakes are considered non-game wildlife and are protected by state law unless they are about to cause personal or property damage. Therefore, snakes should not be indiscriminately killed. Some species are listed on federal and/or state threatened and endangered species lists.
Seal all openings (1/4 inch [0.6 cm] and larger) with mortar, 1/8-inch (0.3-cm) hardware cloth, sheet metal, or steel wool. A snake-proof fence can be used to exclude snakes. Reduce rodent populations. Keep all vegetation closely mowed; remove bushes, shrubs, rocks, boards, firewood, and debris lying close to the ground, especially around buildings. Alter all sites that provide cool, damp, dark habitat for snakes. Several snake repellents have been promoted, but none are consistently effective. A funnel trap with drift fences can be used. Nonpoisonous snakes are protected by law in most states and indiscriminate killing is illegal. Shooting or clubbing is effective, however, where it is allowed, with permission from the state wildlife agency. Remove snakes from inside buildings by placing piles of damp burlap bags or towels in areas where snakes have been seen. After snakes have been attracted, remove the bags and snake(s) from the building.
Glue boards can be used to capture snakes found inside houses or other buildings. Once caught, the snake and board can be taken outside. The snake can be released unharmed by pouring vegetable oil on it (the oil counteracts the adhesive).
Dr T's Snake away repellent
Snake guard snake trap
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Feral cats
Feral cats are the 'wild' offspring of domestic cats and are primarily the result of pet owners' abandonment or failure to spay and neuter their animals, allowing them to breed uncontrolled. Feral cat 'colonies' can be found behind shopping areas or businesses, in alleys, parks, abandoned buildings, and rural areas. They are elusive and do not trust humans.
Many people assume their animals will survive when they move away and leave them behind. Contrary to popular belief, domestic animals do not automatically return to their "natural" instincts and cannot fend for themselves! Already, U.S. animal shelters are forced to kill an estimated 15 million homeless cats and dogs annually. The alternative to humane euthanasia for almost every stray is a violent end or slow, painful death. Many "throwaways" die mercilessly outdoors from starvation, disease, abuse --- or as food to a predator.
To control Feral cat we recommend
Havhart 1081 live trap Dog & Cat Repeller
More information Check local animal control Unit or
FCCC (Feral Cat Caretakers' Coalition )
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Pocket gophers
Pocket gophers (Thomomys spp.) are burrowing rodents that get their name from the fur-lined external cheek pouches, or pockets, that they use for carrying food and nesting materials. They are well equipped for a digging, tunneling lifestyle with powerfully built forequarters, large-clawed front paws, fine short fur that doesn't cake in wet soils, small eyes and small external ears, and highly sensitive facial whiskers to assist movements in the dark. An unusual adaptation is the gopher's lips, which can be closed behind the four large incisor teeth to keep dirt out of its mouth when it is using its teeth for digging.
Five species of pocket gophers are found in California, with Botta's pocket gopher (Thomomys bottae) being most widespread. Depending on the species, they may range in length from 6 to 10 inches. Although they are sometimes seen feeding at the edge of an open burrow, pushing dirt out of a burrow, or moving to a new area, gophers for the most part remain underground in the burrow system.
Mounds of fresh soil are the best sign of gopher presence. Mounds are formed as the gopher digs its tunnel and pushes the loose dirt to the surface. Typically mounds are crescent- or horseshoe-shaped when viewed from above. The hole, which is off to one side of the mound, is usually plugged. Mole mounds are sometimes mistaken for gopher mounds. Mole mounds, however, appear circular and have a plug in the middle that may not be distinct; in profile they are volcano-shaped. Unlike gophers, moles commonly burrow just beneath the surface, leaving a raised ridge to mark their path.
One gopher may create several mounds in a day. In nonirrigated areas, mound building is most pronounced during spring or fall when the soil is moist and easy to dig. In irrigated areas such as lawns, flower beds, and gardens, digging conditions are usually optimal year round and mounds can appear at any time. In snowy regions, gophers create burrows in the snow, resulting in long, earthen cores on the surface when the snow melts
Pocket gophers live in a burrow system that can cover an area of 200 to 2,000 square feet. The burrows are about 2-1/2 to 3-1/2 inches in diameter; feeding burrows are usually 6 to 12 inches below ground, whereas the nest and food storage chamber may be as deep as 6 feet. Gophers seal the openings to the burrow system with earthen plugs. Short, sloping lateral tunnels connect the main burrow system to the surface and are created during construction of the main tunnel for pushing dirt to the surface.
Gophers do not hibernate and are active year-round, although fresh mounding may not be seen. They also can be active at all hours of the day. Gophers usually live alone within their burrow system, except for females with young or when breeding, and may occur in densities of up to 16 to 20 per acre.
Gophers reach sexual maturity at about 1 year of age and can live up to 3 years. Females produce one to three litters per year. In nonirrigated areas, breeding usually occurs in late winter and early spring, resulting in one litter per year, whereas in irrigated sites, up to three litters per year may be produced. Litters usually average five to six young.
Pocket gophers are herbivorous, feeding on a wide variety of vegetation, but generally preferring herbaceous plants, shrubs, and trees. Gophers use their sense of smell to locate food. Most commonly they feed on roots and fleshy portions of plants they encounter while digging. However, sometimes they feed aboveground, venturing only a body length or so from their tunnel opening. Burrow openings used in this manner are called "feed holes." They are identified by the absence of a dirt mound and a circular band of clipped vegetation around the hole. Gophers will also pull entire plants into their tunnel from below. In snow-covered regions gophers may feed on bark several feet up a tree by burrowing through the snow.
Pocket gophers often invade yards and gardens, and feed on many garden crops, ornamental plants, vines, shrubs, and trees. A single gopher moving down a garden row can inflict considerable damage in a very short time. Gophers also gnaw and damage plastic water lines and lawn sprinkler systems. Their tunnels can divert and carry off irrigation water and lead to soil erosion. Mounds on lawns interfere with mowing equipment and ruin the aesthetics of well-kept turfgrass.
Pocket gophers are classified as nongame mammals by the California Fish and Game Code. This means that if they are found to be injuring growing crops or other property, including garden and landscape plants, they may be controlled at any time and in any legal manner by the owner or tenant of the premises.
To successfully control gophers, the sooner you detect their presence and take control measures, the better. Most people control gophers in lawns, gardens, or small orchards by trapping and/or by using poison baits.
Successful trapping or baiting depends on accurately locating the gopher's main burrow. To locate the burrow, you need to use a gopher probe. Probes are commercially available or can be constructed from a pipe and metal rod. An enlarged tip that is wider than the shaft of the probe is an important design feature that increases the ease of locating burrows. Probes made from dowels or sticks may work in soft soil, but are difficult to use in hard or dry soils.
First, locate areas of recent gopher activity based on fresh mounds with dark, moist soil. Fresh mounds that are visible aboveground are the plugged openings of lateral tunnels. The main burrow can be found by probing about 8 to 12 inches from the plug side of the mound; it is usually located 6 to 12 inches deep. When the probe penetrates the gopher's burrow, there will be a sudden, noticeable drop of about 2 inches. You may have to probe repeatedly to locate the gopher's main burrow, but your skill will improve with experience. Because lateral tunnels may not be revisited by the gopher, trapping and baiting in them is not as successful as in the main burrow.
Trapping is a safe and effective method to control pocket gophers. Several types and brands of gopher traps are available. The most commonly used is a two-pronged pincher trap, such as the Macabee trap, which is triggered when the gopher pushes against a flat vertical pan. Another popular trap is the choker-style box trap.
To set traps, locate the main tunnel with a probe, as previously described. Use a shovel or garden trowel to open the tunnel wide enough to set traps in pairs facing opposite directions. By placing traps with their openings facing opposite directions, a gopher coming from either end of the burrow can be intercepted. The box trap is easier to use if you've never set gopher traps before, but setting it requires more excavation than if you are using the Macabee trap, an important consideration in lawns and some gardens. Box traps are especially useful when the diameter of the gopher's main burrow is small (less than 3 inches) because to use the Macabee-type wire traps, small burrows must be enlarged to accommodate them.
It is not necessary to bait a gopher trap, although some claim baiting gives better results. Lettuce, carrots, apples, or alfalfa greens can be used as bait. Place the bait at the back of a box trap behind the wire trigger or behind the flat pan of a Macabee-type trap. Wire your traps to stakes so they can be easily retrieved from the burrow. After setting the traps, exclude light from the burrow by covering the opening with dirt clods, sod, cardboard, or some other material. Fine soil can be sifted around the edges to ensure a light-tight seal. If too much light enters, the gopher may plug the burrow with soil, filling the traps and making them ineffective. Check traps often and reset them when necessary. If a gopher is not caught within 3 days, reset the traps in a different location.
The key to an effective toxic baiting program is bait placement. Always place pocket gopher bait in the main underground tunnel, not the lateral tunnels. After locating the main gopher burrow with a probe, enlarge the opening by rotating the probe or inserting a larger rod or stick. Following label directions, place the bait carefully in the opening using a spoon or other suitable implement that is used only for that purpose, taking care not to spill any on the ground surface. A funnel is useful for preventing spillage.
Strychnine-treated grain bait is the most common type used for pocket gopher control. This bait generally contains 0.5% strychnine and is lethal with a single feeding. Baits containing anticoagulants are also available. When using anticoagulant baits, a large amount of bait (about 10 times the amount needed when using strychnine baits) is required so that it is available for multiple feedings. Although generally less effective than strychnine baits, anticoagulant baits are preferred for use in areas where children and pets may be present. When using either type of bait, be sure to follow all label directions and precautions.
After placing the bait in the main burrow, close the probe hole with sod, rocks, or some other material to exclude light and prevent dirt from falling on the bait. Several bait placements within a burrow system will increase success. Tamp down existing mounds so you can distinguish new activity. If new mounds appear for more than 2 days after strychnine baiting or 7 to 10 days after anticoagulant baits have been used, you will need to rebait or try trapping.
If a large area is infested with gophers, a hand-held bait applicator will speed treatment. Bait applicators are a combination probe and bait reservoir. Once a burrow is located using the probe, a trigger releases a measured amount of bait into the tunnel. Generally, strychnine bait is used with such a bait applicator because the applicator dispenses only a small quantity of bait at a time.
Underground fencing might be justified for valuable ornamental shrubs or landscape trees. To protect existing plantings, bury hardware cloth or 3/4-inch mesh poultry wire 2 feet deep and extended at least 1 foot aboveground to deter gophers moving overland. This method is less than perfect, however, because gophers may burrow below the wire; also, the wire may restrict and damage root growth of trees. Small areas such as flower beds may be protected by complete underground screening of sides and bottoms. When constructing raised vegetable or flower beds, underlay the soil with wire to exclude gophers. Wire baskets to protect individual plants can be made at home or are commercially available and should be installed at the time of planting. If you use wire, use light-gauge wire for shrubs and trees that will need protection only while young. Leave enough room to allow for the roots to grow. Galvanized wire provides the longest lasting protection.
Six to 8 inches of coarse gravel 1 inch or more in diameter around underground sprinkler lines or utility cables may deter gophers.
Because no population will increase indefinitely, one alternative to a gopher problem is to do nothing, letting the population limit itself. Experience has shown, however, that by the time gopher populations level off naturally, much damage has already been done around homes and gardens.
Predators, including owls, snakes, cats, dogs, and coyotes, eat pocket gophers. Predators rarely, however, remove every prey animal, but instead move on to hunt at more profitable locations. In addition, gophers have defenses against predators. For example, they can escape snakes in their burrows by rapidly pushing up an earthen plug to block the snake's advance.
The idea of attracting barn owls to an area for gopher control by installing nest boxes has been explored. Although barn owls prey on gophers, their habit of hunting over large areas, often far from their nest boxes, and their tendency to hunt areas with abundant prey, make them unreliable for gopher control. When a single gopher, which is capable of causing damage rapidly, invades a yard or garden, a gardener cannot afford to wait for an owl to arrive. Effective action, usually trapping or baiting, must be taken immediately.
Reduction of gopher food sources using either chemical or mechanical methods may decrease immigration of gophers. If feasible, remove weedy areas adjacent to yards and gardens to create a buffer strip of unsuitable habitat.
Pocket gophers can easily withstand normal garden or home landscape irrigation, but flooding can sometimes be used to force them from their burrows where they can be dispatched with a shovel or caught by a dog. Fumigation with smoke or gas cartridges is usually not effective because gophers quickly seal off their burrow when they detect smoke or gas. But if you are persistent with and use repeated treatments, some success may be achieved.
No repellents currently available will successfully protect gardens or other plantings from pocket gophers. Plants such as gopher purge (Euphorbia lathyrus), castor bean (Ricinus communis), and garlic have been suggested as repellents but these claims have not been substantiated by research. Although there are many frightening devices commercially available to use on pocket gophers (vibrating stakes, ultrasonic devices, wind-powered pinwheels, etc.), pocket gophers do not frighten easily, probably because of their repeated exposure to noise and vibrations from sprinklers, lawnmowers, vehicles, and people moving about. Consequently, frightening devices have not proven to be effective. Another ineffective control method is placing chewing gum or laxatives in burrows in hopes of killing gophers
Once pocket gophers have been controlled, monitor the area on a regular basis for reinfestation of the land. Level all existing mounds after the control program and clean away weeds and garden debris so fresh mounds can be seen easily. It is important to check regularly for reinfestation because pocket gophers may move in from other areas and damage can reoccur within a short time. If your property borders wildlands, vacant lots, or other areas that serve as a source of gophers, you can expect gophers to reinvade regularly. Be prepared to take immediate control action when they do; it is easier, cheaper, and less time-consuming to control one or two gophers than to wait until the population builds up to the point where the gophers are causing excessive damage.
Havahart Live Trap
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Ground Squirrel
Ground squirrels are easily identified as they forage aboveground near their burrows. The ground squirrel's body measures 9 to 11 inches and its semi-bushy tail adds another 5 to 9 inches in length. The fur is brownish gray and speckled with off-white along the back; the sides of the head and shoulders are light gray to whitish. One subspecies that occupies most of northern California has a dark, triangular-shaped patch on its back between the shoulders; this patch is missing from other species. While ground squirrels are similar in appearance to tree squirrels and may climb trees, when frightened they will always retreat to a burrow, whereas tree squirrels will climb a tree or tall structure and never use a burrow. Ground squirrels live in a wide variety of natural habitats but usually avoid thick chaparral, dense woods, and wet areas. Populations may be particularly high in grazed rangelands and in areas disturbed by humans such as road or ditchbanks, fence rows, around buildings, and in or bordering many crops.
California Ground Squirrel
Gray, light brown and dusky fur are mixed to give the California Ground Squirrel's upperparts a mottled appearance. A band of slightly darker fur, flecked with light gray, extends from the head over the middle of the back. Gray fur forms a cape over the sides of the head and shoulders. This gray cape may have a protective function, breaking up the animal's body outline and making it more difficult for a predator to spot. Light buff or grayish yellow fur covers the undersides.
Whitish fur rings the eyes and perhaps protects the squirrel's eyes from too intense sunlight. Black fur edges the outer rims of the ears. The tail, five to seven inches long and more than half the length of the head and body, is covered with mixed yellowish gray and black hairs and is lighter on the underside. Generally, California Ground Squirrels measure between sixteen and nineteen inches total length.
From central Washington through western Oregon, California and into the northern part of Baja California, this squirrel is found in plains, small meadows, tree-covered hillsides, rocky outcrops and granite taluses. The northern extent of its range was once bounded by the Columbia River, but the California Ground Squirrel has crossed the river into south-central Washington.
California Ground Squirrels live in burrows. Hillsides or low earth banks are preferred sites because the burrows can be excavated horizontally, although many burrows are dug down vertically several feet to assure protection. Burrows, which are about four or five inches in diameter, may vary in length from five feet to more than thirty-five feet and may be used by many generations of ground squirrels. Some burrows house single squirrel occupants, while others may be colonial homes for several squirrels. Short burrows many have a single opening, but longer branched burrows often have two or more openings. In studying California Ground Squirrels, one group of scientists found a squirrel home with six females and five males which consisted of tunnels totaling 741 feet in length and had thrity-three openings. The deepest tunnel was twenty-eight feet below ground. Although most tunnel excavation work is done in the spring, digging and burrow improvement is a continuing process.
During the breeding season, from about February to April, and during the summer months, California Ground Squirrels are above ground for long periods each day. They often spend their time feeding (they eat a variety of seeds, fruits, acorns, roots, mushrooms, and even insects such as grasshoppers, crickets, and caterpillars), sunning, dust-bathing, and grooming. In one of their favorite sun bathing positions the squirrel lies with its belly on the ground, elbows on the ground with forearms extended and head raised. They also like to sit straight up, motionless, with their arms hanging down across their chest and their paws resting one upon the other. From this position they love to look about. In fact, their vision is thought to be about equivalent to a human's.
California Ground Squirrels are ever vigilent and ready to sound an alarm if danger is perceived. If frightened, a squirrel often makes long leaps and emits a sharp, metallic alarm cry several times in rapid succession. The squirrel may pause near its burrow and clink at intervals, or it may drop down into its tunnel system.
Generally, ground squirrels spend most of their life within a fairly small area. In fact, most of their time is spent within about 100 feet of their burrow and rarely does a ground squirrel go beyond a 150-yard radius of its burrow.
California Ground Squirrels hibernate for several months of the year. How long they hibernate depends on where they live. In some areas, adult squirrels may spend as much as eight months dormant in their burrows. Sometime in the fall or eary winter the squirrels will settle in for the winter. It is interesting that the males are the first to begin hiberation. Females and young squirrels may not begin hibernation for over a month later. California Ground Squirrels go into "true hibernation," that is, unlike a bear which merely enjoys a long period of sleep, the ground squirrel goes into what might be thought of as a state of near suspended animation. Their heart rate slows down to as little as only a tenth of its normal heart rate and their respiration may slow down to the point where they only take a breath every couple of minutes. Even in this state, they wake up every four to five days for short periods. During these times they eat food they stored away in special chambers during the summer months and they use special "bathroom" chambers before climbing back into their underground nests. The males are the first to emerge from hibernation, usually in the early spring.
The breeding season, from February to April, is a busy time for California Ground Squirrels. Mating chases are common, with males chasing females until she is ready to accpet one. Females may mate with more than one male and often mate more than one time. After about a month-long gestation period, a mother squirrel may give birth from three to as many as fifteen babies, with from five to six being an average number. The babies remain underground with the mother. Their eyes open at about five weeks and by about the eighth week, they are ready to come out of the burrow for the first time. At first the youngesters will play and feed very near the burrow entrance under the mother's close and attentive supervision.
California Ground Squirrels may live as long as six years, but three or four years is probably their average life span in the wild. Captive ground squirrels have lived for ten years.
Wyoming ground squirrel
The Wyoming ground squirrel (Spermophilus elegans) is one of six species of ground squirrels found in Colorado. Formerly called Richardson's ground squirrel, the Wyoming ground squirrel averages 10 to 15 inches long and weighs 9 to 14 ounces as an adult. Its fur is generally a brownish smoke-gray, with a dappled pattern of cinnamon-buff. The underside of the tail is buff.
Wyoming ground squirrels are found in Colorado, southern Wyoming, western Nebraska and Utah. The species occupies areas from 5,000 feet to above timberline in the north central and northwestern sections of Colorado. It prefers open sagebrush, grasslands and subalpine meadows.
Wyoming ground squirrels prefer green foliage, such as grasses, but also eat forbs and shrubs. When green vegetation becomes scarce, the squirrels eat dry grasses and seeds. They also eat Insects, including grasshoppers, crickets and caterpillars, and scavenge eggs from ground-nesting birds.
Wyoming ground squirrels construct and live in underground burrows. In brushy country, Wyoming ground squirrel burrows often are identified by a substantial pile of debris (sticks, rocks, sagebrush leaves) that covers the area downslope from the burrow entrance. Squirrels stay in their burrows at night and during the warmest part of summer days. The burrow is the center of a ground squirrel's activity.
The squirrels enter their burrows in late July or early August and hibernate underground until the following March or April. Males usually come above ground one to three weeks before the females. Breeding takes place one to four days after females emerge from hibernation. The young are born after a three- to four-week gestation period with two to 10 young per litter. Only one litter is produced each year. The young are weaned at five weeks and are above ground foraging by June. Density of Wyoming ground squirrel populations can range from two ground squirrels per acre before young are born in the spring, to 20 or more animals per acre in early June when juveniles and adults are active.
Predators include bullsnakes, coyotes, foxes, badgers, weasels and hawks.
Ground squirrels are hosts for fleas and may act as carriers for bubonic plague. Plague is transmitted to humans via flea bites. Early symptoms of plague include swollen and tender lymph nodes, chills and fever. Early diagnosis and treatment is imperative. When walking through suspected plague areas, apply an insect repellent to socks and pant cuffs before tucking pants inside boots.
High concentrations of Wyoming ground squirrels can pose a serious pest problem. They compete with livestock for forage and can destroy food Crops. The mounds of dirt that squirrels excavate to build burrows in hay fields can damage haying equipment and take fields out of production. Burrowing activity also can damage grasslands, golf courses and lawns.
Several alternatives are available for Wyoming ground squirrel control. Landowners may use control methods themselves or hire a commercial firm.
Small, isolated colonies of Wyoming ground squirrels can be effectively controlled by shooting. Shooting lowers the population by removing individuals and disrupting their life cycle. However, if there are other colonies of ground squirrels nearby, individuals from those populations will migrate into the area where squirrels are being removed. For effective control of problem ground squirrels, a population must be kept under constant shooting pressure.
For small populations, wire-mesh cage traps can be set anywhere that squirrels frequent. Place traps on level ground within a few feet of burrows or other high-activity areas. Bait for several days with the door wired open to get squirrels accustomed to visiting the trap and unafraid of it. Wooden snap-type rat traps and modified pocket gopher traps also can be used.
Bait the traps with rolled oats, peanut butter, fruit such as apples, or grain, depending on what works best in your area and the time of year. If corn is used as bait, it should be cracked.
Poison grain bait is the most practical method for controlling large numbers of Wyoming ground squirrels. Baiting is most effective at two points during the Wyoming ground squirrels' annual cycle: early spring, or late June to early July.
In a year of average rainfall, begin poison grain control early in the spring, about one to two weeks after squirrels emerge from their burrows. Continue for one month or until vegetation turns green. Early control is enhanced by cold weather and minimal vegetative growth that makes bait more desirable to ground squirrels.
As soon as green vegetation becomes available, bait is less accepted. To achieve successful control in early spring, apply bait when the entire ground squirrel population is active. If part of the population is still hibernating, baiting is not effective. Since females emerge one to two weeks after males, do not start baiting at the first sign of activity. Baiting also is not effective late in the gestation period or shortly after the young are born because females are rarely above ground then. Check the activity level of the population by trapping or shooting 10 or more animals and checking the ratio of males to females. A 1-to-1 ratio usually means that females are active and baiting is appropriate.
Baiting in mid-summer is common in Colorado. Bait after green vegetation is dry and dormant (sometime in June or July) but before squirrels disappear into their burrows to hibernate in late July to early August. Bait acceptance is high in June and July because Wyoming ground squirrels are eating to build fat reserves for winter. In a very dry spring, control can continue from April until July because of the scarcity of green vegetation.
Prebaiting with untreated, steam-rolled oats, barley or cracked corn (depending on bait used) two to three days before baiting improves bait acceptance. On rangelands, apply prebait and bait by hand in a 6-inch bait spot near each active burrow. Place no more than 1 teaspoon (4 grams) of bait per spot. Do not place bait in the burrows because squirrels forage above ground and are wary of any food found in the burrow. Apply bait only after all or most of the prebait is eaten, and only in areas where prebait is consumed.
In non-crop areas, apply prebait and bait by hand near each active burrow or runway. Place bait (no more than 1 teaspoon per burrow) on the grass and allow it to fall to the ground. Do not put treated bait in piles.
Apply poison bait only once per year. Surviving squirrels from the first treatment sometimes become ill after eating bait. Consequently, these animals will become bait shy and further treatments are unsuccessful.
Use of poison baits according to label directions usually results in an 80 to 90 percent reduction in Wyoming ground squirrel numbers. Poor results after baiting usually are due to improperly placed bait, failure to prebait, presence of green vegetation, or inactivity of a portion of the ground squirrel population.
To use aluminum phosphide, insert one to four tablets (usually one) as far back into the burrow as possible. Then insert a wadded newspaper and plug the opening to the burrow with moist soil or a plug of sod placed grass-side down to form an airtight seal. The wadded newspaper prevents the fumigant from being covered and may delay ground squirrels from digging out before the tablets activate. Aluminum phosphide appears to provide the best control when soil temperatures are above 60 degrees F.
To use the gas cartridge, punch at least five or six holes in one end with a nail or ice pick. Insert the sharp point part way and rotate it to loosen the contents so the cartridge will burn more rapidly. Insert and light the fuse. Once the fuse is burning well, gently slide the cartridge as far back into the burrow opening as possible. Immediately plug the opening with moist soil or a piece of sod placed grass-side down to form an airtight seal. Do not cover or smother the cartridge. As a rule, gas cartridges do not give satisfactory control if the soil is dry.
The hydrogen phosphide gas produced by aluminum phosphide tablets is toxic to all forms of animal life. Exposure through inhalation produces symptoms such as a pressing sensation in the chest, dizziness, nausea, vomiting and a rapid onset of stupor. Expose affected people to fresh air and provide immediate medical attention.
After Wyoming ground squirrels have been exterminated, reinvasion may be slowed by deep ripping with a tractor and ripping blade. After successful control of California and Belding ground squirrels, 18-inch-deep ripping of individual burrows or the entire area significantly reduced recolonization. Ripping did not reduce ground squirrel numbers on sites where control was unsuccessful. Weigh negative aspects of ripping, such as cost, against the potential benefits of slower recolonization and reduced frequency of rodenticide use.
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Raccoon
The Common Raccoon is a mammal native to the Americas. Its name derives from the Algonquian word aroughcoune, "he who scratches with his hands". Raccoons are intelligent omnivores with a reputation for slyness and mischief.
A raccoon (also spelled racoon) is a nocturnal mammal in the genus Procyon of the Procyonidae family. Raccoons are unusual for their thumbs, which (though not opposable) enable them to open many closed containers (such as garbage cans) and doors. They are intelligent omnivores with a reputation for being clever and mischievous. Raccoons range from 50 to 100 cm in length (including the tail) and weigh between 4.5 and 16 kg. The raccoon's tail ranges from 20 to 40 cm in length. Male raccoons are generally larger than females.
The raccoon is found throughout the United States, with the exception of the higher elevations of mountainous regions and some areas of the arid Southwest. Raccoons are more common in the wooded eastern portions of the United States than in the more arid western plains.
Raccoons prefer hardwood forest areas near water. Although commonly found in association with water and trees, raccoons occur in many areas of the western United States around farmsteads and livestock watering areas, far from naturally occurring bodies of permanent water. Raccoons den in hollow trees, ground burrows, brush piles, muskrat houses, barns and abandoned buildings, dense clumps of cattail, haystacks, or rock crevices.
Raccoons are omnivorous, eating both plant and animal foods. Plant foods include all types of fruits, berries, nuts, acorns, corn, and other types of grain. Animal foods are crayfish, clams, fish, frogs, snails, insects, turtles and their eggs, mice, rabbits, muskrats, and the eggs and young of ground-nesting birds and waterfowl. Contrary to popular myth, raccoons do not always wash their food before eating, although they frequently play with their food in water.
Raccoons breed mainly in February or March, but matings may occur from December through June, depending on latitude. The gestation period is about 63 days. Most litters are born in April or May but some late-breeding females may not give birth until June, July, or August. Only 1 litter of young is raised per year. Average litter size is 3 to 5. The young first open their eyes at about 3 weeks of age. Young raccoons are weaned sometime between 2 and 4 months of age.
Raccoons are nocturnal. Adult males occupy areas of about 3 to 20 square miles (8 to 52 km2), compared to about 1 to 6 square miles (3 to 16 km2) for females. Adult males tend to be territorial and their ranges overlap very little. Raccoons do not truly hibernate, but they do ¡°hole up¡± in dens and become inactive during severe winter weather. In the southern United States they may be inactive for only a day or two at a time, whereas in the north this period of inactivity may extend for weeks or months. In northern areas, raccoons may lose up to half their fall body weight during winter as they utilize stored body fat.
Raccoon populations consist of a high proportion of young animals, with one-half to three-fourths of fall populations normally composed of animals less than 1 year in age. Raccoons may live as long as 12 years in the wild, but such animals are extremely rare.
Usually less than half of the females will breed the year after their birth, whereas most adult females normally breed every year. Family groups of raccoons usually remain together for the first year and the young will often den for the winter with the adult female. The family gradually separates during the following spring and the young become independent.
Raccoons can carry Baylisascaris roundworm, canine distemper, parvovirus and rabies. Of the 6,844 documented rabies cases reported in the United States in 2004, 37.5% were in raccoons (Krebs et al. 2005, pp. 1912-1925). Seeing a raccoon during the day is an indicator, though not absolute, that the animal is ill. Rabies may be entirely without symptoms in the raccoon.
Any animal with suspected rabies should not be approached and if it requires killing the local health department should be notified to obtain instructions on means of disposal. Blood, feces and other bodily fluids may carry the rabies virus. Many communities have animal control officers who can deal with rabid animals.
Rabies is so prevalent in some populations of wild raccoons that several states and the US federal government, as well at authorities in Canada have developed programs of oral vaccination to try to reduce the spread of this lethal disease.
Raccoons occasionally kill poultry and leave distinctive signs. The heads of adult birds are usually bitten off and left some distance from the body. The crop and breast may be torn and chewed, the entrails sometimes eaten, and bits of flesh left near water. Young poultry in pens or cages may be killed or injured by raccoons reaching through the wire and attempting to pull the birds back through the mesh. Legs or feet of the young birds may be missing. Eggs may be removed completely from nests or eaten on the spot with only the heavily cracked shell remaining. The lines of fracture will normally be along the long axis of the egg, and the nest materials are often disturbed. Raccoons can also destroy bird nests in artificial nesting structures such as bluebird and wood duck nest boxes.
Raccoons can cause considerable damage to garden or truck crops, particularly sweet corn. Raccoon damage to sweet corn is characterized by many partially eaten ears with the husks pulled back. Stalks may also be broken as raccoons climb to get at the ears. Raccoons damage watermelons by digging a small hole in the melon and then raking out the contents with a front paw.
Raccoons cause damage or nuisance problems around houses and outbuildings when they seek to gain entrance to attics or chimneys or when they raid garbage in search of food. In many urban or suburban areas, raccoons are learning that uncapped chimneys make very adequate substitutes for more traditional hollow trees for use as denning sites, particularly in spring. In extreme cases, raccoons may tear off shingles or facia boards in order to gain access to an attic or wall space.
Raccoons also can be a considerable nuisance when they roll up freshly laid sod in search of earthworms and grubs. They may return repeatedly and roll up extensive areas of sod on successive nights. This behavior is particularly common in mid- to late summer as young raccoons are learning to forage for themselves, and during periods of dry weather when other food sources may be less available.
The incidence of reported rabies in raccoons and other wildlife has increased dramatically over the past 30 years. Raccoons have recently been identified as the major wildlife host of rabies in the United States, primarily due to increased prevalence in the eastern United States.
Raccoons are protected furbearers in most states, with seasons established for running, hunting, or trapping. Most states, however, have provisions for landowners to control furbearers that are damaging their property. Check with your state wildlife agency before using any lethal controls.
To control Raccoon remove obvious sources of food or shelter around the premises; usually not practical as a sole method of controlling damage. Cage traps, body-gripping, and foothold traps are very effective, especially in conjunction with exclusion and/or habitat modification. shooting can be very effective, particularly if trained hounds are used to tree the raccoons. Local regulations may apply.
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Woodchucks
Woodchucks are found over east central Alaska and across southern Canada to the Pacific coastal provinces, extending south to northern Idaho. They are also distributed in the eastern United States (south to central Alabama and Arkansas)and westward to the edge of the plains.
As a result of deforestation and maintenance of the land of cultivated fields and pastures, the woodchuck has thrived and multiplied. Typical woodchuck habitat includes rolling farmland interspersed with grassy pastures, small woodlots, and brushy fencelines. Woodchucks especially prefer forest edges and openings though they are never far from cover, and they are partial to loam and sandy loam soils for burrowing. They have been found in a variety of forest types, including spruce and jack pine and cutover hardwoods.
The woodchuck is the largest sciurid in its geographic range. It has a heavy, chunky body (18 -26 in) set atop relatively short but powerful legs well adapted for digging. Males are slightly larger than females. The dark-colored, bushy tail is about one-fourth as long as the total body length, much shorter in comparison to other squirrels. Woodchuck skulls are broad and flat. Strongly developed supraorbital processes project at right angles from the frontals with the tips projecting slightly forward.The dense, woolly underfur of the back and sides of the woodchuck is somewhat obscured by longer, less dense guard hair. These guard hairs are banded with alternating dark and light coloring (bands usually yellowish to reddish brown, hairs tipped with white), giving this mammal a frosted appearance. The underfur of the woodchuck is gray with yellow tips, much paler from the dorsal area. Ears are small, low and rounded atop a black-colored head with small black eyes.
The woodchuck also possesses three nipple-like anal glands, which secrete a musky odor.
Breeding takes place in early spring. Female woodchucks are monoestrus, mating soon after they emerge from hibernation in April. Females bear a single litter of one to nine (the average litter size contains three to five young) after a gestation period of 31 or 32 days. The young are born in May and at birth are naked, pink, wrinkled, and blind and helpless. Young weigh 26 to 27g and measure about 4 1/4 in. in length. At one week, their skin becomes pigmented. Black body hair emerges during the second week. At three weeks, the young are capable of crawling and by the fourth week, they can open their eyes. At five weeks, the young woodchucks are fully active. The female parent is reported to stand while she nurses her litter. She has four pairs of teats. Woodchuck offspring (both male and female) are weaned after a month and a half and are usually forced to disperse in their first summer of life, when they are about six weeks old. Offspring usually do not become sexually mature until their second spring.
Woodchucks can live up to six years in the wild, and ten years in captivity.
Woodchucks are the most solitary marmots although several individuals may share a single den. Woodchucks are usually highly agonistic. Though observed mostly on the ground, woodchucks have been seen climbing trees to reach food and swimming with only their head and nose above water. Woodchucks are considered diurnal in their aboveground activities, although they have been observed feeding in dim light or even at night, especially when food is scarce. In the spring and autumn, activity peaks near midday and late in the day. In the summer, the animal appears more active in the morning and afternoon, preferring clear and sunny skies for maximum activity. When not feeding, woodchucks sun, scratch, and preen themselves outside their den while watching for potential enemies. Woodchucks are very vocal mammals, hence the name "whistle-pig." When alarmed, a woodchuck gives a loud, shrill whistle. Teeth grinding and chattering are common when woodchucks are cornered. Woodchucks have also been heard to bark, squeal, and whistle when fighting with other woodchucks. When in danger, woodchucks retreat into nearby dens instead of running (when in motion, they usually walk though they can run at a loping gallop of about ten miles an hour). Predators include red foxes and humans; many other predators, such as the cougar, wolf, bobcat, or coyote have been extirpated or have experienced great reductions in their numbers in most areas.
Dens are situated in well-drained locations. With strong, clawed, forelimbs and large teeth, woodchucks can easily construct burrows with as many as five entrances. A plunge hole is often near the major den entrance and may have a vertical drop of as much as 2 ft to a main tunnel. These dens are also very long, up to 45 ft of tunnels, extending as far underground as 5 ft. Dens in open areas are used in the summer, and those under stumps, at the edge of rock ledges, and near other protection are generally occupied during the winter hibernation. Dens are always kept clean and well padded. Occupied dens can be recognized by a pile of fresh earth at the entrance. Nesting chambers are about fifteen inches in diameter and are usually sparsely lined with dry leaves.
Woodchucks are true hibernators, relying soley on body fat for winter survival. Hibernation takes place in a side chamber along one of the underground corridors of the burrow system. This prolonged topor reduces various metabolic processes- heartbeat slows (from more than 100 per minute to as few as 15), body temperature drops from about 35 degrees C to 8 degrees C, and respiration also decreases. While hibernating, the woodchuck rolls itself into a ball and tucks its head between its hind legs. Hibernation generally begins in October and ends in March or April (not on February 2). Hibernating chambers are thought to be located under the roots of trees. Woodchucks somehow seem to know when to wake up, controlled by a circannual clock, but actual emergence depends on the daily temperature.
Soon after leaving hibernation, sexually mature woodchucks begin the reproductive process. Males tend to venture above ground first and fight vigorously with each other. Woodchucks are not monogamous and males do not take part in raising the offspring. There is some evidence that woodchucks associate in groups which are dominated by a single adult male, discouraging other males from mating with his females.
Woodchucks are essentially herbivores, rarely eating insects, snails, and birds' eggs. They are primarily grazers, eating the vegetative parts of plants unlike other scuirids, which feed on reproductive parts such as seeds, nuts, and flowers. Woodchucks often sit on their haunches and pull plants over with their forepaws. In early spring, when green vegetation is sparse, woodchucks may eat the bark, buds, and twigs of plants such as dogwood, sumac, black cherry, and other fruit trees. Favorite foods include grasses and forbs, clover, leaves of sassafras and other trees, and numerous herbs. Woodchucks are also partial to farm crops especially alfalfa, planted clover, corn, oats, and assorted fruits and vegetables. Daily food consumption can be as much as 0.67kg.
Woodchucks influence the how many and what kinds of plants there are in their communities by eating them. Woodchucks are also important and abundant food sources for many large predators in their communities.
Woodchucks are serious agricultural pests. Not only do they travel considerable distances to raid gardens, but their immense burrows damage farm machinery and destroy building foundations. Horses have been known to break their legs when stumbling into these burrows.
Woodchucks are favorite targets for sport hunting, which helps control their numbers. Their reproductive potential seems sufficient enough to prevent local extermination.
The burrowing activities of woodchucks often provide homes for many kinds of wildlife. Also, vegetation growth around burrows is enhanced by fertilization from buried fecal materials.
As a result of deforestation and maintenance of the land of cultivated fields and pastures, the woodchuck has thrived and multiplied. Woodchucks are favorite targets for sport hunting, which helps control their numbers. Their ability to reproduce quickly is sufficient to prevent local extermination.
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Bats
Bats are mammals in the order Chiroptera. Their most distinguishing feature is that their forelimbs are developed as wings, making them the only mammal in the world naturally capable of flight; other mammals, such as flying squirrels and gliding phalangers, can glide for limited distances but are not capable of true sustainable flight. The word Chiroptera can be translated from the Greek words for "hand wing," as the structure of the open wing is very similar to an outspread human hand, with a membrane (patagium) between the fingers that also stretches between hand and body.
There are estimated to be about 1,100 species of bats worldwide, accounting for about 20% of all mammal species. About 70% of bats are insectivores. Of the remainder, most feed on fruits and their juices; three species sustain themselves with blood and some prey on vertebrates. These bats include the leaf-nosed bats (Phyllostomidae) of central America and South America, and the related bulldog bats (Noctilionidae) that feed on fish. At least two known species of bat feed on other bats: the Spectral Bat or American False Vampire bat and the Ghost Bat of Australia. Despite the cold weather, there are 6 species of bats in Alaska.
Some of the smaller bat species are important pollinators of some tropical flowers. Indeed, many tropical plants are now found to be totally dependent on them, not just for pollination, but for spreading their seeds by eating the resulting fruits. This role explains environmental concerns when a bat is introduced in a new setting. Tenerife provides a recent example with the introduction of the Egyptian fruit bat.
By emitting high-pitched sounds and listening to the echoes, microbats locate prey and other nearby objects. This is the process of echolocation, an ability they share with dolphins and whales. Two groups of moth exploit the bats' senses: tiger moths produce ultrasonic signals to warn the bats that the moths are chemically-protected (aposematism) (this was once thought to be a form of "radar jamming", but this theory has been disproved); the moths Noctuidae have a hearing organ called a tympanum which responds to an incoming bat signal by causing the moth's flight muscles to twitch erratically, sending the moth into random evasive maneuvers.
Although the eyes of most microbat species are small and poorly developed, their sense of vision is typically very good, especially at long distances, beyond the range of echolocation. Their senses of smell and hearing are excellent.
The teeth of microbats resemble those of the insectivorans. They are very sharp in order to bite through the hardened armour of insects or the skin of fruits.
Thermographic image of a bat using trapped air as insulation.While other mammals have one-way valves only in their veins to prevent the blood from flowing backwards, bats also have the same mechanism in their arteries.
The finger bones of bats are much more flexible than those of other mammals. One reason is that the cartilage in their fingers lacks calcium and other minerals nearer the tips, increasing their ability to bend without splintering. The cross-section of the finger bone is also flattened instead of circular as is the bone in a human finger, making it even more flexible. The skin on their wing membranes is a lot more elastic and can stretch much more than what is usually seen among mammals.
Because their wings are much thinner than those of birds, bats can maneuver more quickly and more precisely than birds. The surface of their wings are also equipped with touch-sensitive receptors on small bumps called Merkel cells, found in most mammals, including humans. But these sensitive areas are different in bats as each bump has a tiny hair in the center, making it even more sensitive, and allowing the bat to detect and collect information about the air flowing over its wings. An additional kind of receptor cell is found in the wing membrane of species that use their wings to catch prey. This receptor cell is sensitive to the stretching of the membrane. The cells are concentrated in areas of the membrane where insects hit the wings when the bats capture them.
Colony of Mouse-eared Bats, Myotis myotisMother bats usually have only one offspring per year. A baby bat is referred to as a pup. Pups are usually left in the roost when they are not nursing. However, a newborn bat can cling to the fur of the mother and be transported, although they soon grow too large for this. It would be difficult for an adult bat to carry more than one young, but normally only one young is born. Bats often form nursery roosts, with many females giving birth in the same area, be it a cave, a tree hole, or a cavity in a building. Mother bats are able to find their young in huge colonies of millions of other pups. Pups have even been seen to feed on other mothers' milk if their mother is dry. Only the mother cares for the young, and there is no continuous partnership with male bats.
The ability to fly is congenital, but after birth the wings are too small to fly. Young microbats become independent at the age of 6 to 8 weeks, megabats not until they are four months old. At the age of two years bats are sexually mature.
A single bat can live over 20 years, but the bat population growth is limited by the slow birth rate.
Most microbats are active at night or at twilight.
The social structure of bats varies, with some bats leading a solitary life and others living in caves colonized by more than a million bats.
Insects— About 70 percent of all bats eat insects: flies, mosquitoes, beetles, and cockroaches. A colony of bats in Texas eats 500,000 pounds (226,796 kilograms) of mosquitoes nightly!
Nectar— Bats that eat nectar are like hummingbirds, with long snouts and tongues that allow them to lap up nectar as they hover. Their hair catches pollen and carries it from flower to flower. Many plant species would not survive without bat pollinators.
Fruit— Fruit-eaters are drawn by the smell of ripe fruit and are important seed-dispersers. Some seeds will not sprout unless they have passed through a bat¡¯s digestive system. Bats are a crucial resident of healthy rain forest habitats. At the San Diego Zoo, the fruit bats are fed nectar and a variety of juicy fruits, including oranges, pears, grapes, and watermelon, as well as bananas and a bat pellet (to supplement their nutritional needs).
Fish, etc.— A few species of bats eat fish, plus lizards, frogs, birds, rodents, and even other bats! These bats kill their prey by biting its head. Fishing bats fly over the surface of the water, use echolocation to find the fish, grab it with their sharp claws, and then move it into their mouth.
Blood— Only three species of bats, found from Mexico to South America, eat the blood of mammals or birds, often domestic animals like cows. These bats make a small, V-shaped cut in the animal¡¯s skin with a bite, then lick up the blood. They don¡¯t suck blood, like the vampire legends say! And licking the blood from an animal¡¯s leg is usually more annoying than dangerous. A chemical in the bat¡¯s saliva keeps the blood from clotting before it's done eating. This chemical could have medical uses for humans. Investigations are being done to see if this chemical can help humans who have blood clots that could cause strokes.
Bats are responsible for pollinating trees, flowers, and cacti. They spread seeds so plants grow in new areas. Bats pollinate avocados, bananas, breadfruit, dates, figs, mangoes, and peaches. These remarkable mammals live together by the millions and each can eat half its weight in insects a night, so they are great at controlling large numbers of pests that harm crops and spread disease. Certain microorganisms found in bat droppings may have important medical uses for humans.
Without active conservation programs, bats face extinction. Bats have been killed on purpose when people disturbed their caves or hunted them for food or medicine. Contact a local nature center or park to find out if there is a bat club in your area, or join Bat Conservation International. You can start your own club, help protect local caves and other roosting areas, or build a bat house for your yard or neighborhood.
The lethal control of bats, even when there is a proven potential danger to humans, often is subjected to careful scrutiny and interagency coordination. A survey of federal legislative actions, court decisions, and agency interpretations concerning bats can be found in Bat Management in the United States. Some states have laws that specifically mention bats, either providing or denying protection. Others have legislation that applies to bats only by interpretation, since bats may be considered non-game wildlife or indigenous state mammals. Some bats have protection as either federal or state-listed endangered species, but the same state may not protect other species of bats. Enforcement and public education must accompany legislation to accomplish the intended goal of protecting the public and saving endangered bats. Familiarity with the appropriate federal and state laws should precede any nuisance management activities.
Pre-management Considerations Bat Watch for Infestation Confirmation- To confirm that bats are actually roosting in or on a building, look for bats flying in and out of a site and/ or for signs of infestation. A bat watch can be conducted by two people (more may be necessary to observe large or complex sites) posted at opposite corners of a structure. An evening watch begins about 30 minutes before dark and a morning watch begins about 1 hour before dawn. Observations should continue for approximately 1 hour. Such observations can indicate exit/ entry points and the number of bats. With practice, distinguishing some bat species may also be possible. For example, compared to the big brown bat, the little brown bat is noticeably smaller in size, and its flight has more rapid wing beats, and more rapid turning and darting.
It may be necessary to watch for more than one night to compensate for weather conditions, bats¡¯ sensitivity to observers, noisy or inexperienced observers, and improper use of light. Observations can be enhanced with a standard flashlight, but be certain to keep the bright part of the beam as far as possible away from the exit hole being observed. Bright light will increase bats¡¯ reluctance to exit and may result in an incomplete exit of the colony. A valuable observation aid is a powerful, rechargeable flashlight equipped with a plastic, red pop-off filter (similar to the Kodak Wratten 89B). Also, an electric headlamp, supplied with rechargeable batteries and fitted to a climbing or spelunking helmet, allows hands-off illumination outdoors as well as indoors when exploring roost locations. Bats are sensitive to light intensity and can visually discriminate shapes and patterns in extremely low light situations. They can only see in black and white; hence, the low-contrast illumination and soft shadows produced by red light has little effect on bats.
Locating the Roost(s)- It is not always possible or convenient to conduct a bat watch. Thus, a detailed inspection inside the building for bats or bat sign may be necessary to find specific roosts. Daytime is best, especially during the warmer part of the day. Bats roost in the most varied kinds of buildings and in every part from cellar to attic. Some types of buildings appear preferable (older houses, churches, barns, proximity to water) as do certain roost locations therein, especially areas with little disturbance, low illumination, little air circulation, and high temperatures. Often it is easy to locate bats, especially in warm weather in attics or lofts, where they may hang in clusters or side-by-side from the sloping roof lath, beams, and so forth. However, bats have the ability to find crevices and cavities, and if disturbed may rapidly disappear into the angles between converging beams, behind such beams or wallboards, into mortise holes on the underside of beams, and into the multilayered wall and roof fabrications. If bats cannot be openly observed, usually there are various interior and exterior signs of their presence. Often there are multiple roost sites within or on a single building.
Problem Assessment- Once it has been confirmed that bats are present, one must determine if there is damage, if there is a health risk, and if some intervention is warranted. There are circumstances in which ¡°no action¡± is the correct action because of the beneficial role of bats. In cases where there is risk of contact, damage from excreta accumulations, stains, and so on, intervention may be necessary.
Timing- With the exception of disease treatment and removal of the occasional bat intruder, timing becomes an important planning consideration. Management procedures must not complicate an already existing problem and should emphasize bat conservation. Therefore, all interventions should be initiated before the young are born or after they are weaned and able to fly. Thus, the annual opportunity extends from about mid-August to mid-May for much of North America. Treatments might otherwise result in the unnecessary death of animals (especially young unable to fly) trapped inside, offensive odors, and attraction of arthropod scavengers.
Removal of Occasional Bat Intruders A bat that has blundered into the living quarters of a house will usually find its way out by detecting air movement. When no bite or contact with people or pets has occurred, the simplest solution for ¡°removing¡± the bat is to try to confine it to one room, then open windows and doors leading outdoors and allow it to escape. If the bat is present at night, the lights should be dimmed to allow the animal to find open doors and windows; some light is necessary if an observer is to insure that the bat finds its way out. If bright lights are kept on, the bat may become confused and may seek refuge behind shelving, curtains, hanging pictures, or under furniture.
Healthy bats normally will not attack people even when chased. Chasing a flying bat with a folded newspaper, tennis racket, or stick will cause the bat to take evasive action, and a bat¡¯s flight reversal to avoid a wall is often misinterpreted as an attack. These flailings, often futile, will cause a bat to seek safety wherever possible, making escape more difficult for the bat and more frustrating for the human.
If a bite or physical contact occurs, capture the bat without damaging its head and immediately contact a physician (see previous section regarding rabies treatment). Management of problems involving bat colonies require more complicated procedures and a greater time commitment.
NOTE – The Centers for Disease Control recommends that if there has been human or pet contact, or if it is unknown if there was contact, the bat should be destroyed (do not crush the head) and the public health department consulted. The Centers for Disease Control also recommends that if the bat was in a room with a sleeping person then it should be captured, destroyed without crushing the head, and submitted for testing. Consult your physician for more information.
Bat A Way Repellents
Havahart live trap.
Sanitation and cleanup. Artificial roosts.
When no bite or contact has occurred, help the bat escape (otherwise submit it for rabies testing).
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Rabbits
Few animals are as content to sit unmoving for as long as rabbits are. As prey animals, rabbits go to extremes not to advertise themselves as available to be eaten—but that isn't to say they don't let their guard down once in a while. If lucky, the patient observer may see them in the early morning or evening hours in spirited and spontaneous chases of other rabbits, or energetically hopping and leaping about—revealing this animal's playful nature. While rabbits lead lives full of concern and fear, they sometimes display a joie de vivre that we can envy.
Rabbits are commonly misunderstood to be rodents, but they actually belong to their own order and are properly called lagomorphs. Lagomorphs are found in both the Old and New Worlds, with the New World species distinguished between "true" rabbits (genus Sylvilagus) and hares and jackrabbits (genus Lepus). While many people mistakenly believe that wild rabbits and domesticated pet rabbits are the same species, the truth is that the domesticated rabbit (Oryctolagus cuniculus) belongs to another genus entirely and is only distantly related to his wild brethren.
Of the wild species in the United States, there are 14 species of true rabbits, of which the eastern cottontail (Sylvilagus floridanus) is the most widely distributed and familiar. Eastern cottontails have been introduced to the Pacific Northwest and are widespread enough throughout the South and Midwest to make the descriptor "eastern" misleading. Cottontails vary in color from gray to brown and have large hind feet and ears—which also function as body heat regulators, since rabbits don't pant or sweat—and short fluffy tails. They vary in size, but on the whole are rather small animals, averaging about a foot long and weighing just two to three pounds. Rabbits are crepuscular, meaning they're most active at dusk and dawn.
Cottontails are generally found in brushy hedgerows and the edges of wooded areas with dense cover, but they also do well in suburban and urban areas where lawns, gardens, and various shrubs meet their habitat requirements. Rabbits feed on leafy plants during the growing season and the buds and bark of woody plants in the winter. Besides the plants essential to their diet, rabbits also need safe resting places and cover in which to escape from predators.
Famous for their breeding abilities, cottontails breed from February through September in the north. Gestation is about 28 days. Three to four litters of four or five young ("bunnies") are born each year. Young are born helpless in a shallow depression lined with grass and mother's fur, but they grow rapidly and are weaned when less than half the size of the adult.
They may live up to two years in the wild, but where predators are numerous they seldom survive more than one year. However, it is important to recognize the role that predation plays in keeping rabbit populations in balance. Hawks and owls are important avian predators, and foxes, raccoons, skunks, and opossums are mammals that prey on rabbits.
Rabbits have a remarkable ability to circumvent fences and raid vegetable gardens. One can of course shoot, trap, or gas them; but by then a good deal of damage has been done, and more may occur before the offending rabbit or rabbits are dispatched.
One can also use repellents such as Rid-a-Critter, but if your vegetables provide a good potential food source, the rabbits may eventually get accustomed to the repellant and ignore it.
For the vegetable gardener, the best answer to the rabbit problem is electric fence.This powerful yet economical device puts a low barrier fence just behind two pet-safe, child-safe charged wires–so that a rabbit or other small animal seeking to go over or under the barrier will come into good contact with the charged wires, get zapped, and go home. Since animals are terrified by electricity much more than by repellants, this answer is 100% effective all of the time–and it works not only against rabbits but also against raccoons, woodchucks, ground squirrels, skunks, opossums, and virtually all small animals.
People don¡¯t normally want to put fences, even low ones, around flower gardens or ground cover plantings vulnerable to rabbits, so in such cases electric fence is usually not an option. As noted above, in addition to the traditional trapping and bombing options, one can also scatter Rid-a-Critter granules around vulnerable areas (the granules will last up to 2 months outdoors).
Electric Fence
Havahart Traps
Rid-a-Critter Repellents
Giant Destroyer ( gas bomb )
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Pigeon
Height/Weight: 12¡±-15¡±/10oz-16oz Life Span: 3-4 years in the wild up to 16 captivity Flight Speed: 28 to 82 mph " Food: Widely varied, grains, seeds, corn human food scraps Habitat: Pigeons are highly dependent on humans to provide them with food and sites for roosting, loafing, and nesting. They are commonly found around farm yards, grain elevators, feed mills, parks, city buildings, bridges, and other structures.
Pigeons and doves are some 300 species of near passerine birds in the order Columbiformes. In general parlance the terms "dove" and "pigeon" are used somewhat interchangeably. In ornithological practice there is a tendency for "dove" to be used for smaller species and "pigeon" for larger ones, but this is in no way consistently applied, and historically the common names for these birds involve much variation between "dove" and "pigeon". The species commonly referred to just as the "pigeon" is the feral Rock Pigeon, common in many cities.
The feral pigeon is the number one urban pest bird. Large numbers exist in every city across the country. Not a native bird, feral pigeons are descendants of domestic homing pigeons brought over from Europe and released here in the 1600s. They were domesticated from the wild rock doves from the sea cliffs of Europe by the Romans over two thousand years ago. Several traits have allowed them to dominate the urban landscape. Because of their history, pigeons are not afraid of people; they roost and nest readily in man made structures and they have a diverse diet. These birds have a dark bluish-gray head, neck, and chest with glossy yellowish, greenish, and reddish-purple iridescence along its neck and wing feathers. There are two narrow black wing bands and a broad black terminal tail band. The females tend to show less iridescence than the males. The bill is dark grayish-pink.
Feral pigeons are responsible for untold millions of dollars of damage each year in urban areas. The uric acid in their feces is highly corrosive. Also, debris from roosting flocks can build up, backing up gutters and drains thus causing damage to roofs and other structures. Extensive damage to air conditioning units and other roof top machinery is commonplace. Pigeon droppings deface and accelerate the deterioration of buildings and increase the cost of maintenance. Pigeon manure deposited on park benches, statues, cars, and unwary pedestrians is aesthetically displeasing. Around grain handling facilities, pigeons consume and contaminate large quantities of food destined for human or livestock consumption. Besides physical damage, the bacteria, fungal agents and ectoparasites found in pigeon droppings sometimes represent a health risk. Large amounts of droppings may kill vegetation and produce an objectionable odor. Pigeons may carry and spread diseases to people and livestock through their droppings. They are known to carry or transmit pigeon ornithosis, encephalitis, Newcastle disease, cryptococcosis, toxoplasmosis, salmonella food poisoning, and several other diseases. Additionally, under the right conditions pigeon manure may harbor airborne spores of the causal agent of histoplasmosis, a systemic fungus disease that can infect humans. The ectoparasites of pigeons include various species of fleas, lice, mites, ticks, and other biting insects, some of which readily bite people. Some insects that inhabit the nests of pigeons are also fabric pests and/or pantry pests. The northern fowl mite found on pigeons is an important poultry pest. Pigeons located around airports can also be a threat to human safety because of potential bird-aircraft collisions, and are considered a medium priority hazard to jet aircraft by the US Air Force.
Pigeons and doves are stout-bodied birds with short necks and short slender bills with a fleshy cere.
The usually flimsy nests are made of sticks, and the two white eggs are incubated by both sexes. Doves feed on seeds, fruit and other soft plantstuff. Unlike most other birds (but see flamingo), the doves and pigeons produce "crop milk", which is secreted by a sloughing of fluid-filled cells from the lining of the crop. Both sexes produce this highly nutritious substance to feed to the young.
This family occurs worldwide, but the greatest variety is in the Indomalaya and Australasia ecozones. The young doves and pigeons are called "squabs".
Pigeons are not protected by Fed. Government. There are a wide variety of solutions available for handling a pigeon infestation. The best solution for pigeon problems, is complete exclusion with BirdNet. Many ledge problems can be solved by using products such as BirdGel, or Bird Needle Spikes. When bird pressure is heavy in an area, exclusion work must be accompanied by flock dispersal methods like trapping or use of moving predator deterrents like the visual repellent. Flock dispersal alone is not a long term solution especially in medium-heavy pressure situations like when there are food/water/shelter sources at the site. One vital component to pigeon removal is to modify their habitat by eliminating food supply. Discourage people from feeding pigeons in public areas. Clean up spilled grain around elevators, feed mills, and railcar clean-out areas. Eliminate standing water.
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Raven
Height/Weight: 16¡± - 32¡± / 24 - 57 oz. Life Span: 2-13 years in wild; > 44 in captivity Flight Speed: 25-32 mph Food: Scavenger, eats almost anything: carrion, insects, snakes, human food scraps, eggs, & garbage Habitat: Treeless tundra, seacoasts, open riverbanks, rocky cliffs, mountain forests, plains, deserts, and scrubby woodlands, urban areas
Raven is the common name given to several large black birds of the genus Corvus. Other birds in the same genus are the smaller crows, jackdaws, and rooks.Common ravens are one of the most widespread, naturally occurring birds worldwide. The raven is a large, entirely black bird with a wedge-shaped tail. They have a well-developed ruff of feathers on the throat, which are called 'hackles' and are used often social communication. These are the largest passerines.
Ravens are frequently a big agricultural pest bird due to their fondness for corn and other farm crops and have been accused of killing or maiming small livestock, but they are a minor urban pest compared to the pigeon, starling or house sparrow. They may also negatively affect conservation efforts aimed at desert tortoises, sandhill cranes, and California condors. These birds can overwhelm trees, creating a lot of noise and harassing people and animals in the vicinity which can be a nuisance to the suburban resident. Furthermore, like any pest bird, dropping buildup can lead to structural damage from the uric acid while also posing a health risk due to the harborage of disease.
Much Raven behavior is related to mating and reproduction. Juveniles begin to court at a very early age, but may not bond for another 2-3 years. Aerial acrobatics and displays of intelligence and ability to provide food are key behaviors of courting Ravens. Once paired, Ravens tend to nest together for life, usually in the same location. The pair will build a nest on a cliff ledge or a tall tree (or a building ledge in cities).
Breeding pairs must have a territory of their own before they begin nest-building and reproduction, and the territory and its food resources will be defended against others. The nest is made of large sticks and twigs lined with a softer material, such as deer fur. The female will lay from three to seven pale bluish-green, brown-blotched eggs. Both parents keep the eggs warm, and take turns feeding the chicks. As with many birds, pairing does not necessarily mandate sexual monogamy, and raven habits show fluidity in this regard.
Popular beliefs about Ravens include the notion that they are attracted to shiny objects, but research indicates that juveniles are deeply curious about all new things, and that Ravens retain an attraction to bright, round objects based on their similarity to bird eggs. Mature Ravens lose their intense interest in the unusual, and become highly neophobic. Ravens usually live ten to fifteen years in the wild, or twice that in captivity. In much of Europe and North America, raven is used as a synonym for the widespread Common Raven, and much of the literature and culture surrounding ravens refers to that species.
Ravens have impressed their biologist observers with their apparent intelligence and insight. Experiments have shown that members of the crow family are capable of using tools; an experiment, where some desirable item lay on the bottom of a bottle, showed that some of these birds were able to form a hook to reach the item. Like other corvids, Ravens can copy sounds from their environment, including human speech. They have a wide range of vocalizations, which remain the object of interest to ornithologists.
The Common Raven is the official bird of the Yukon and of the city of Yellowknife, Northwest Territories.
Raven species include:
Common Raven (C. corax) Australian Raven (C. coronoides) Forest Raven (C. tasmanicus) Little Raven (C. mellori) Thick-billed Raven (C. crassirostris) White-necked Raven (C. albicollis) Brown-necked Raven (C. ruficollis) Chihuahuan Raven (C. cryptoleucos)
It is possible to drive away large flocks of Ravens and other crows with audio-visual scare devices To maximize effectiveness, hang visual products in trees before beginning an aural campaign. They can be kept off ledges using Bird Spikes or Bird-Shield biodegradable food spray. BirdNet netting will exclude ravens completely from most areas.
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Canadian Geese
Height/Weight: 22" to 48"; 3-4 lbs. to 24lbs.. Life Span: Generally 10-25 years; some instances 40+ Flight Speed: 20-55 mph Food: Graze on marsh grass, pond weeds, new grain and corn Habitat: Grassy fields near water
Canadian Geese have a black neck, bill and head with occasional white patches and a white strap under the chin. The body is usually brownish gray although colors vary in some of the subspecies. In some of these birds, the body is dark brown where as in some of the larger subspecies, the body is a light gray tone. Underneath, the colors are much lighter and almost white on the tail. During flight, the tail shows a white semi-circle just above the black tail. The black head and neck with white "chinstrap" distinguish this goose from all except the Barnacle Goose, but the latter has a black breast, and grey, rather than brownish, body plumage. There are seven subspecies of this bird, of varying sizes and plumage details, but all are recognizable as Canada Geese. Some are hard to distinguish from the Cackling Goose (Branta hutchinsii), with which the Canada Goose was long assumed to form one species; the name Lesser Canada Goose is, confusingly, often applied to B. hutchinsii.
This species is 90-100 cm long with a 160-175 cm wing span. Males weigh 3.5–6.5 kg, (8–14 pounds), and can be very aggressive in defending territory. The female looks virtually identical but is slightly lighter at 3–5.5 kg (7–12 pounds), and has a different honk. Waterfowl cause significant losses to agricultural and aqua cultural crops, damage golf courses, cemeteries, lawns, and gardens, and contaminate reservoirs. Their activities can cause real economic hardship, aggravate nuisance situations, or create human health hazards. Goose problems in urban and suburban areas are primarily caused by giant Canada geese, which are probably the most adaptable of all waterfowl. If left undisturbed, these geese will readily establish nesting territories on ponds in residential yards, golf courses, condominium complexes, city parks, or on farms. Most people will readily welcome a pair of geese on a pond. They can soon turn from pet to pest, however. A pair of geese can, in 5 to 7 years, easily become 50 to 100 birds that are fouling ponds and surrounding yards and damaging landscaping, gardens, and golf courses. Defense of nests or young by geese and swans can result in injuries to people who come too close. A larger threat is air safety. Geese are one of the main birds involved in airline bird strikes worldwide.
paradeThese birds feed mainly on plant material. When feeding in water, they submerge their heads and necks to reach aquatic plants, sometimes tipping forward like a dabbling duck. Flocks of these birds often feed on leftover cultivated grains in fields, especially during migration or in winter.
During the second year of their lives, Canada Geese find themselves a mate. Most couples stay together all of their lives. If one is killed, the other may find a new mate. The female lays 4-8 eggs and both parents protect the nest while the eggs incubate, but the female spends more time at the nest than the male. During that time, they lose their flight feathers, so that they cannot fly until after their eggs hatch. This period lasts for 25-28 days.
Adult geese are often seen leading their goslings in a line with one parent at the front, and the other at the back of the "parade". While protecting their young, parents often violently chase away nearby creatures, from small blackbirds to other geese, to humans that approach. However, geese may form groups of a number of goslings and a few adults, called crèches. The young do not leave their parents until after the spring migration, when they return to their birthplace.
This well-known species is native to North America. It breeds in Canada and the northern United States in a variety of habitats. However, the nest is usually located in an elevated area near water, sometimes on a beaver lodge. The eggs are laid in a shallow depression lined with plant material and down. The Great Lakes region maintains a very large population of Canada Geese.
Like most geese, it is naturally migratory, the wintering range being most of the US. The calls overhead from large groups of Canada Geese flying in V-shaped formation signal the transitions into spring and autumn. In some areas, migration routes have changed due to changes in habitat and food sources. In mild climates, such as the Pacific Northwest, due to a lack of former predators, some of the population has become non-migratory.
If a goose feels threatened by another creature it will usually warn the creature by giving off a hissing sound.
By the early 20th century, over-hunting and loss of habitat in the late 1800s and early 1900s had resulted in a serious decline in the numbers of this bird in its native range. The Giant Canada Goose subspecies was believed to be extinct in the 1950s until, in 1962, a small flock was discovered wintering in Rochester, Minnesota by Harold Hanson of the Illinois Natural History Survey. With improved game laws and habitat recreation and preservation programs, their populations have recovered in most of their range, although some local populations, especially of the subspecies occidentalis, may still be declining. They have adapted well to urban environments, especially those with well-trimmed lawns and large ponds, such as golf courses and city parks.
Non-migratory Canada geese are difficult to remove. Once established, immediate corrective landscaping and behavioral modification is imperative: Remove cover shrubbery; use herbicides to eliminate aquatic vegetation; and reduce fertilizer, especially around pond area, to make grass less nutritionally attractive. Several visual scare products , audio scare devices distress calls through several speaker locations in a random pattern to scare them away. All systems require constant re-enforcement and should be relocated frequently.
Branta canadensis Canada Goose distribution: yellow:summer; blue:winter; green:year-roundCanada Geese have reached western Europe naturally, as has been proved by ringing recoveries. The birds are of at least the subspecies parvipes, and possibly others. Canada Geese are also found naturally on the Kamchatka Peninsula in eastern Siberia, eastern China, and throughout Japan.
Bird Spike 2000
JTeaton 4 the bird
Bat A Way Repellents
Regular price: $67.95 Sale price: $59.85, 4/$235.98 | $109.45 |
Not all professional pest control products can be sold to every state: it must be a registered product in the respective states. DIY Pest Control Product will not sell any products or kits that contain restricted pesticide to such states as NY.
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- BEDLAM BED BUGS SPRAY
   
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